UKC

15-Year-Old Oriane Bertone Climbs Font 8B+

© Stefano Bertone

15-year-old French climber Oriane Bertone has climbed Super Tanker (Font 8B+) at Cuvier Rempart in Fontainebleau, France. The problem was first climbed by Parisian Antoine Vandeputte and links to the left of Big Golden (Font 7C+) into Atrésie (Font 8A) via a desperate traverse.

Bertone had ticked the classic Atrésie in a session last month and then proceeded to attempt Vandeputte's hard extension. She told 8a.nu that she had previously thought the problem to be impossible for her after seeing the much taller Jan Hojer climb it, but evidently, the problem came naturally to her - she climbed it in two sessions after her ascent of Atrésie.

Super Tanker was Bertone's 4th Font 8B+ or harder. She climbed Golden Shadow (Font 8B+) in Rocklands when she was just 12 years old and ticked both Satan i Helvete (Font 8B+) and Satan i Helvete bas (Font 8C) last year. Her ascent of Satan i Helvete bas was the first since a hold had broken in 2013, which made the problem significantly harder.


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19 Jan

3 days total! World class. Simple as that. And in Font as well.

19 Jan

I don't think this kind of thing will be news in a few years' time - climbing will inevitably go the way of gymnastics whereby the best in the world are young due to their better power:weight ratio.

Amazing achievement.

20 Jan

I have to disagree, Jimmy Webb is just one example of a very powerfully built individual bouldering at the highest levels (in all styles, too).

Unrelated but relevant to the story, she’s also already climbed F8C... unreal!

20 Jan

Have you seen the muscles on Aidan Roberts? He isn’t exactly pre puberty which I guess is what you are suggesting comparing with gymnastics. I know where you are coming from though

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