UKC

The Ticklist #57 Repeats of new and old classics

© Stefano Bertone

This week's Ticklist is a mixture of hard sport climbing and bouldering, featuring newer climbs such as Erebor and older classics like Karma...

Jakob Schubert takes down Erebor

Top Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has been repeating 9bs left, right, and centre since the Tokyo games. His latest was Stefano Ghisolfi's Erebor (9b) in Arco, Italy. The 31-year-old had a heart breaking attempt where he broke a crucial hold for his heel near the top. Luckily, he found some slightly harder beta and climbed it on his next attempt. Ghisolfi, Schubert and Ondra are now arranging to try a hard project in the area known as Excaliburi - watch this space.

9a for Anak Verhoeven

Anak Verhoeven has climbed Escalamasters in Perles, Spain. She describes the route as having 'delicate, technical climbing' on tufas that are slightly overhanging. Interestingly, she chose to climb the route twice - once with kneepads and once without - although she believes it made little difference to the grade.

Katie Lamb climbs Direct North

American climber Katie Lamb has climbed Direct North (Font 8B+) in the Buttermilks, California. Writing on her 8a.nu scorecard, she said: 'finally caught a warm enough day in this arctic winter lol. Always good to top out a peabody.' This was the 24-year-old's third of the grade after previously climbing Jade in Rocky Mountain National Park and New Base Line in Magic Wood, Switzerland.

First female ascent of Karma

16-year-old Oriane Bertone has made what is likely the first female ascent of Fred Nicole's mega-classic Karma (Font 8A+) at Franchard Cuisinière, Fontainebleau. Whilst nowhere near the top of her grade range (Bertone climbed Font 8C in 2020), Karma is iconic and particularly hard for the short. 


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