UKC

The Ticklist #48 Hard Grit, DWS, Bouldering, and Alex Honnold's Mum

© Jakob Schubert Collection

This week's Ticklist has an impressive variety of ascents from across the globe. We've got everything from hard grit, to deep water soloing, desperate bouldering, and big wall ascents.

Parthian Shot for Siebe Vanhee

Visiting Belgian Siebe Vanhee has climbed Parthian Shot (E10 6c) at Burbage South Edge in the Peak District. His was the third ascent after the 'shipwreck' flake broke (after Ben Bransby and Neil Mawson), making the route harder and more dangerous.

Siebe has planned a tour of the UK and aims to visit the Lake District, Pembroke, Scotland, North Wales and Devon, climbing historic lines and sampling British trad ethics. Let's hope the weather plays ball for him!

Watch the video of Ben Bransby reclimbing Parthian Shot after the break of the flake below:

8b Multi Pitch for Katherine Choong

Katherine Choong has climbed Une Jolie Fleur dans une Peau de Vache, a 300m 8b multi pitch in the Verdon Gorge. The route is an overhanging, tufa heavy wall that's unlike most routes in the Verdon. Writing about the ascent, Katherine said:

'We climbed two days to the top to figure out (more or less) our beta in the top pitches. The rain having then wet the wall, especially in the 2nd pitch (8b), we spent two other days just climbing this pitch without going higher, the conditions not being so good to attempt a send.

'Finally on the 5th day, motivated by the successive ascents of each other, in a great fight of resistance, we both managed to climb each pitch to the top in a perfect no fall ascent.'

New Font 8C+ for Ryuichi Murai

Japanese climber Ryuichi Murai has climbed his long-standing project in Shiobara, Japan, naming it Nexus and giving it the grade of Font 8C+. It links two existing Font 8B+s and consists of nearly 40 moves. He has compared the climb to the likes of Babel (Font 8C), also in Shiobora, and In Search of Time Lost (Font 8C) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. He has expressed his desire to try Grand Illusion (Font 8C+) in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah, which some believe to be close to a 9a+/9b route.

Jakob Schubert climbs Es Pontas

Top Austrian climbed Jakob Schubert has made the third ascent of Chris Sharma's iconic route Es Pontas in Mallorca. The Olympic bronze medalist has been taking a break from competing and two weeks ago made the second ascent of Sharma's other desperate DWS, Alasha.

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Dierdre Wolownick (Alex Honnold's Mum) becomes the oldest woman to climb El Cap

Last month on her 70th birthday, Dierdre Wolownick became the oldest woman to climb El Capitan, beating how own accolade from four years ago. It took her and climbing partner Garet McMackin 10 hours to ascend the Eastern Steps according to the LA Times. It's a route that most climbers use as a descent but still involves roughly 1000ft of jugging, something I'm sure we all hope to be capable of when we're 70!

Four years ago, Alex Honnold led his mum up Lurking Feartaking just 13 hours - quite the achievement given her relative lack of experience, particularly on big walls.

Watch our interview with Dierdre from 2019's Kendal Mountain Festival:


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29 Oct

The headline is a little unfortunate, it rather makes it sound like somebody ticked AH’s dear old mum…

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