UKC

New Font 8C at Biblins Cave for Sam Blackwell

© Sam Blackwell Collection

20-year-old Sam Blackwell has made the first ascent of a new Font 8C at Biblins Cave, Gloucestershire. The problem, which he named World at War (f8C), links Godzilla Sit (f8B) into Spaceship (f8B+).

Sam on World at War (Font 8C)  © Sam Blackwell Collection
Sam on World at War (Font 8C)
© Sam Blackwell Collection

Sam first started attempting what would become World at War in 2020 when he went there to climb Godzilla. He did this during his first session and went on to try Spaceship, and 8B+ extension to Godzilla, shortly after. Spaceship took him roughly 4 to 5 sessions, after which he got stuck into the project. Sam told UKC:

'In summer 2021, I actually started trying World at War. I had 2/3 sessions and managed to get through the Spaceship crux but just wasn't fit enough to finish it off and so I left it for the year.

'The problem is incredible, it flows really well. It breaks down into 7C+, into 8B, and then a 7C+ with a very droppable match at the end. The 8B crux is four moves that are quite powerful and tensiony but also quite techy, requiring lots of flexibility as the way I do it you end up with a heel-toe cam right next to your head!'

At the start of the year, Sam began training with David Mason who highlighted his lack of power endurance. He began a four-month training block to improve his power endurance to better tackle the 19 move problem.

Biblins has a high concentration of hard boulder problems including three Font 8Cs  © Sam Blackwell Collection
Biblins has a high concentration of hard boulder problems including three Font 8Cs
© Sam Blackwell Collection

From Sam's first session of the year, things went smoothly, although watching back footage realised he wasn't quite strong enough on the final hand match:

'Jonny Kydd came down and showed me a way more consistent method for the match after seeing me drop it and so I went away, grew some skin back and came back a few days later and did it first go of the day.'

Sam started climbing in Birmingham when he was 10-years-old. He has since moved to Sheffield to study where he's managed to tick problems such as The Ace (f8B) in a session, and Keen Roof (f8B).

In 2018, James Squire climbed the main line at Biblins Cave that also finishes up Spaceship but starts up WADzilla (f8B). The problem is called The World is Yours and also gets a grade of Font 8C.


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18 May

Well done!

18 May
the problem is godzilla sit into spaceship I believe. With spaceship having some overlap with godzilla sit
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