UKC

Fontainebleau 8C+ for Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen

© Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen has made the sixth ascent Charles Albert's La Révolutionnaire, 8C+, at Gros Sablons, Fontainebleau, France. It is his first of the grade.

Nieuwenhuijsen, who has climbed more than 100 8th grade boulders in Fontainebleau, got close to climbing the boulder in March of this year, but ultimately left empty handed. 

He returned a week ago for another attempt, and got it on the final go before heading home. 

Sharing the news on instagram, Nieuwenhuijsen said:

'Two days ago I climbed La Révolutionnaire 8C+ in Fontainebleau. I came really close to it last month, and this little piece of rock occupied my mind ever since. Luckily I could squeeze in a quick visit to the forest before the heat will set in. And against all odds it didn't rain. I had to dig deep to send and it was the classic "one more try" before I drive back home that was on the money'.

'I am really happy to have stepped up my game with this one. And plans are already in the making to aim a little higher next season'.

On 'dabbing' his pad at the end of the boulder, Nieuwenhuijsen said 'I knew chances were high of touching the 'sunshade' if it was positioned like this. But I needed it to be how it was to keep the slopers in the shade. Also, all difficulty is over after the big swing. I did touch the pad, but I don't mind in this situation'.

Whilst the first ascensionist, Albert, climbed the boulder barefoot, and repeat ascensionists have climbed it with climbing shoes, Nieuwenhuijsen opted for the best of both worlds: a one shoe on, one shoe off approach.

See the video of his ascent, featuring a canine photo-bomb, below:


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