Brooke Raboutou climbs The Traphouse, 8B/+ in FontainebleauVideo

© Finn Stack

Brooke Raboutou has made what appears to be the first female ascent of The Traphouse (f8B+), at Cuvier Rempart in Fontainebleau.

Whilst Raboutou reported the ascent as an 8B, the consensus seems to be that the boulder is a notorious 'slash grade', lying somewhere between 8B and 8B+, as proposed by the first ascensionist, Paul Robinson. Raboutou was able to get the ascent within a single day of working the boulder.

Brooke Raboutou on The Traphouse, 8B/+  © Finn Stack
Brooke Raboutou on The Traphouse, 8B/+
© Finn Stack

Whilst the majority of previous ascensionists reach the lip of the boulder by keeping their left hand low and committing to a long and powerful right hand bump, which forces the feet to cut loose, Raboutou found an alternative beta.

Instead of bumping the right hand from a small crimp, Raboutou used a slightly lower mono finger lock for her right ring finger, which allowed her to reach the lip with her left hand whilst keeping her feet on throughout. For context of these differing styles, you can see Nathan Phillips' and Ryohei Kameyama's ascents here and here.

Late last year, Raboutou's brother Shawn shared news that she had almost made an in-a-day ascent of Box Therapy, an 8C+ boulder established by Daniel Woods at Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. As yet, the only female ascent at 8C or harder is Horizon, climbed by Ashima Shiraishi in Japan.

The Traphouse is Raboutou's tenth boulder at 8B and above, with four at 8B+.

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22 May

Great looking problem, amazing climbing (how heinous does that ring finger lock looks), yet, it’s the music choice that made it for me. Needs to find that!

23 May

Top ascent. 54% vote grade as F8B, however considering her height, F8B+ is well deserved. Should be exciting to see how many more she can rack up.

Perhaps worth mentioning that this is the direct version of Gourmandise, which itself is F8B. Let's not lose the history of climbing. Also the slash grade is a reflection of opinion. The problem is still F8B+, as yet downgraded.

Truly heinous! 🤯

8 Jun
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