UKC

Two 8B's in two days for Allison Vest

© Allison Vest

Canadian climber Allison Vest has made two top-end boulder ascents in as many days.

Last Wednesday, the 27 year old climbed Pagan Poetry Low 8B, in Joe's Valley, Utah. The following day she headed north to Idaho, and climbed Green in the Face 8B, at Castle Rocks.

Pagan Poetry Low, which has both a higher start 8A and a sit start 8C version, starts towards the back of a 65° overhanging roof. A powerful right hand move to a small edge leads to a challenging swing with risk of 'dabbing'. Thereafter, climbing continues through undercuts and a big deadpoint move to a pocket, before finally reaching the lip of the boulder and the easy topout above.

Green in the Face, is also overhanging - albeit less so than Pagan Poetry Low - and takes place on similarly small holds. From the starting flake, the boulder moves up and left through a series of small crimps, ending in two powerful right hand lunges.

Sharing news of her trip on instagram, Vest said:

'On Wednesday I drove down to Joe's and sent Pagan Poetry Low (V13) and then on Thursday I drove up to Idaho and sent Green in the Face (V13). Then later in the day finished up Golden Chandelier (V10) and 2nd Place (V9/10). Probably my best back to back climbing days ever?!'

'With the crazy wet weather this season, the window for climbing locally has been short and it's already getting hot'.

'Didn't know if I'd have time to send either of these boulders before it heated up too much. Pagan Low was tough for me and the big moves and steepness were working some of my weaknesses, Green in the Face suited me really well. Definitely was crucial to chat with Hazel Findlay at the beginning of the week to try to get in the right headspace!'

Vest is well-known for her incredible fingerstrength, something that both of these boulders clearly demand. At the beginning of March, Vest shared footage of her achieving personal bests in a number of areas, including pulling a combined 175kg on her right and left hands on a 20mm edge, as well as being able to generate an incredible 193kg of force - on each hand, in isolation - when pulling on a bar.

Pagan Poetry Low and Green in the Face are Vest's fourth and fifth at the grade, with Vest having become the first Canadian woman to climb 8B back in 2019 with her ascent of The Terminator. In 2022, she joined a select group of just twenty women to have climbed 8B+ with her first female ascent of Show Your Scars, whilst also managing two 8A flashes.

Keep an eye on Vest's youtube channel where she has said she'll be posting the footage of Pagan Poetry Low soon.


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