UKC

Ajo Crudo 8c onsight for Sébastien Berthe

© Christoph Muster

Sébastien Berthe has made an onsight ascent of Ajo Crudo, an 8c sport route at La Cicera, Picos di Europa, Spain.

Having climbed his second 9a+ earlier in the year, onsighting 8c was one of Seb's main goals for 2023, and he had attempted a number of 8c onsights prior to climbing Ajo Crudo.

As Seb wanted to be sure of the difficulty of the route before reporting the ascent, he got back on Ajo Crudo after onsighting it to reasses its difficulty, and found it even harder than he had on the onsight attempt.

The 8c onsight ascent comes just four months after Seb made headlines for flashing James Pearson's E10 route Le Voyage (8b+), in Annot, France, and three months after he flashed thirty-nine Fontainebleau 7a boulders in a single day.

We heard from Seb earlier in the week, when he told us:

'Last few weeks and months, I struggled a bit with my climbing: lack of motivation... quest for meaning... But for two weeks, everything has slowly come back! Now, the least I can say is that I feel back on track'.

'Fighting my way up this infinite crimpy route with the cheering of good friends was definitely a big moment! This means a lot for me: onsight climbing is a discipline that I truly love and I have always done it a lot!'

Seb Berthe sets off on his onsight attempt on Ajo Crudo, 8c  © Christoph Muster
Seb Berthe sets off on his onsight attempt on Ajo Crudo, 8c
© Christoph Muster

'The onsight game is all about finding the good balance between the risks to take and the good beta to have. In order to take the super fast decisions needed, I have the feeling I had to get together all I've learned as a climber, thanks to the kilometres of rocks I've eaten!'

'8c onsight was definitely a big goal of mine for 2023. In the past I onsighted 8b+ and flashed an 8c (Mind Control (8c) in Oliana), but onsighting one felt like a another game: it's so much about grasping the right moment on the perfect route. During the last two weeks, I tried on four different routes, and was quite far each time. But somehow, I knew I was getting closer and was capable of doing it!'

Seb Berthe on Ajo Crudo, 8c  © Christoph Muster
Seb Berthe on Ajo Crudo, 8c
© Christoph Muster
Seb Berthe on Ajo Crudo, 8c  © Christoph Muster
Seb Berthe on Ajo Crudo, 8c
© Christoph Muster

'Ajo Crudo was a really good candidate for an onsight attempt for me: long, crimpy, okay rests between the sections, slightly overhanging... My perfect style! I took all the info I could from the ground (thinking about every single details: shoes, kneebar, clipping), I climbed well, took some risks, had [a good] chance and fought hard. I took the opportunity and truly didn't let it go even if my body has wanted to quit multiple times during the ascent!'

'Regarding the grade, it is hard to know with an onsight. It felt quite soft at first, but I went back on the route, and it was hard (harder than the onsight!) There are a few repetitions on 8a.nu, and it looks like a confirmed one! So I think I take as 8c!'

'I still can't believe that I've achieved something which is, to my eyes, one of the biggest thing you can do in climbing... Thankful for what this sport has brought me!

Seb making some interesting shapes whilst onsighting Ajo Crudo, 8c  © Christoph Muster
Seb making some interesting shapes whilst onsighting Ajo Crudo, 8c
© Christoph Muster


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