UKC

Sam Blackwell makes third ascent of Paradise Found, 8C

© Sam Blackwell

Sam Blackwell has made the third ascent of Paradise Found (f8C), at Hartland Quay.

Sam Blackwell on Paradise Found, 8C  © Sam Blackwell
Sam Blackwell on Paradise Found, 8C
© Sam Blackwell

The boulder is a long, burly, and beta-specific roof problem, with around thirteen hand-moves, as well as a series of challenging heel and toe hooks and feet first climbing.

Paradise Found was first climbed by James Squire in June 2022, before Solly Kemball-Dorey made the first repeat just a few days later. Describing the route to UKC after his FA, James said:

'The boulder starts on two big undercuts in the middle of the roof with a left heel toe jam, you move into two beefy undercuts close by and then reach out to a mega rail in the roof. You then release the toe and have a crazy swing under to throw your toe to the lip'.

'The crux is bumping your right hand into an intermediate before matching the rail in the roof with your feet above your head. The finishing moves are not quite as hard but still droppable (which I found out the hard way). It's not over until you have your hands in the finishing jug!'

The boulder is Sam's second at 8C, and his first repeat at the grade, having established World at War (f8C) - another technical roof climb - in 2022.

Sharing news of his ascent earlier in the week, Sam said:

'Paradise has to be up there with one of my favourite boulders I've done, the movements are crazy and the style is unlike anything else in the UK at least'.

'Last year this boulder just about broke me, I maybe had five or so sessions on it, having to rest up to a week between sessions to allow the elbow tendonitis and ankle pain to ease off, eventually leading to me coming away with no send'.

'I feel like over the last year I haven't really got that much stronger, but my climbing has improved ten fold and this trip has really confirmed that. First day back on paradise I bested my high point from last year and that was with wet holds'.

'I "rested" up for two days and then headed down, taking full advantage of Kyle Whitehand's leaf blower I spent a while drying the boulder off, warming up in between, to then pull on and send first go of the day!'

As if climbing 8C weren't enough, Sam finished off the day by ticking some of Hartland Quay's other hard boulders, including The Speed of Light (f8B+), Combination (V13), and Shire Horse (f8A+).

Paradise Found, 8C, at Hartland Quay  © James Squire
Paradise Found, 8C, at Hartland Quay
© James Squire


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