UKC

Bibliographie 9b+ for Jorge Diaz-Rullo

© @andre_zedd

24 year-old Jorge Diaz-Rullo has made the fifth ascent of Alex Megos' Bibliographie (9b+) in Céüse, France.

The route, first climbed by Megos in August 2020, was initially proposed at 9c, but received a swift repeat at the hands of Stefano Ghisolfi, and both Ghisolfi and Megos subsequently agreed on a downgrade to 9b+.

Since then it has received repeats from Sean Bailey and Sébastien Bouin, both of whom confirmed the grade at 9b+.

Bibliographie is Diaz-Rullo's second 9b+ route, and his first repeat at the grade, having made the first ascent of his long-term 'side-project' Mejorando la Samfaina (9b+) in February this year.

Bibliographie has been one of Diaz-Rullo's two biggest projects for some time. Speaking to us earlier this year, he said 'There are many routes that I would like to repeat all over the world... but I don't think I will have enough time for everything I would like to do! Right now, the lines I have in my head, and that I would most like to climb, are the two projects I have: Bibliographie and Café Colombia'.

Having left empty-handed from an extended six week trip to Céüse earlier in the year, Diaz-Rullo returned to Céüse in early September, and swiftly managed to match his previous high point on the route.

Later that month, he was able to pass the crux boulder problem for just the second time, before costly mistakes and nerves meant he fell just two moves short of clipping the chains.

Two days ago there were no such mistakes, and Diaz-Rullo was able to put an end to a multi-year project.

'I never stopped dreaming, up until the moment the dream came true', he shared on Instagram, 'once again, I learnt a valuable lesson'.

'Never lose hope, because everything is possible. Be your best version, work very hard, stay focused, motivated, and above all, have the patience and the moment will come'.

'Everything is always easier when you have people supporting you along the way. Without you this would have been much more difficult. Thank you! ¡Gracias!'


Watch the film of Alex Megos' FA of Bibliographie below:


This post has been read 3,648 times

Return to Latest News




Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email