UKC

First Ascent of Dune, 8B, for Jana Švecová

© Jana Švecová/Jane Climbs

Jana Švecová has made the first ascent of Dune, 8B, at Stařechovícký Lom, Czech Republic.

A deep lock off ahead of the first crux move  © Jana Švecová/Jane Climbs
A deep lock off ahead of the first crux move
© Jana Švecová/Jane Climbs

The sit-start boulder begins on what look like two decent holds, before climbing through a series of micro crimps on a wall that overhangs at thirty degrees.

After five moves, the boulder joins the stand start version that Švecová established in November of this year - 'Crimp Busters'. Crimp Busters consists of just three moves before an easy top out, and is graded 7C+.

According to Švecová, the eight move boulder contains three crux moves, the third (a deep lock off on a small crimp to allow the left hand to move into a high sidepull), the fourth (keeping core tension whilst pulling hard on the sidepull to allow the right hand to slowly reach a terrible crimp), and the seventh (the crux move of Crimp Busters, a relatively simple move to yet another poor crimp, leaving Švecová at full stretch).

The fourth move to the terrible crimp  © Jana Švecová/Jane Climbs
The fourth move to the terrible crimp
© Jana Švecová/Jane Climbs
At full stretch for the final crux move  © Jana Švecová/Jane Climbs
At full stretch for the final crux move
© Jana Švecová/Jane Climbs

Švecová overcame a wet and snowy top out to climb the boulder in her fifth session, having fallen off the final hard move the session before.

The boulder is Švecová's sixth at 8B, three of which have come in 2023. Of these six 8B boulders, four have been first ascents. In addition to these she has also made two repeats at 8B+, as well as establishing an 8C boulder, Nova, earlier this year.

Nova - which starts up the pre-existing 8B+ boulder Sedni si na Kost, and finishes along the second half of Adam Ondra's Terranova, 8C+ - was initially proposed at 8B+, but received an upgrade from Will Bosi when he made the first repeat just over a month ago.


Check out the video of Švecová making the first ascent of Dune below:


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