Tomoa Narasaki flashes, and downgrades, 8C+ boulderNewsflash

© Tomoa Narasaki

Tomoa Narasaki has made a flash third ascent of Gakidō, in Chigobutai, Japan.

The boulder was first climbed by Shinichiro Nomura in 2022, and was proposed at 8C+. At the time, Nomura described the boulder as having 'the worst positioning' that he had ever felt 'compared with some over V15 projects'.

The boulder was Nomura's first at 8C+, having climbed three previous 8C boulders, of which one was a first ascent.

Gakidō's first repeat came at the hands of Ryuichi Murai, who has five other 8C+ ascents to his name. Whilst he confirmed the grade at the time, he did say 'I feel it's easier than the V16's I've climbed so far'.

After making his own ascent, Tomoa had this to say:

'I visited Chigobutai for the first time, and was able to flash Gakidō, which was FA'ed and originally graded V16 by Shinichiro Nomura last year'.

'Luckily the tough first right hand move fit well for me and I was able to flash the problem!'

'As for the grade, I haven't had the chance to try many boulders above V15 so it is hard to say, but after speaking to Shinichiro Nomura we agreed that V14 sounded right for the problem'.

'Also, after I sent Gakido, I was able to complete the sit-down project of Gakido as well. I hope to be able to present the name and the grade of the Low Start at a later time'.

'Nonetheless, I am so psyched to be able to send both Gakido and the sit-down proj as well!'

Tomoa's ascent of the lower start, albeit not yet graded, is arguably just as newsworthy as his flash of the re-graded stand start. Ryuichi Murai looked at the sit start when he made his own ascent of Gakidō late last year, and suggested that it would add an additional 8B boulder to the bottom of the boulder, and 'increase the difficulty of Gakidō greatly'.

Having downgraded the stand from 8C+ to 8B+, the newly established sit start is, ironically, likely to be in the realm of 8C+.

Tomoa's flash is his second flash at the grade, having flashed Decided in 2019.


Check out the video of Nomura's first ascent below:

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Tomoa Narasaki is a 19 year old from Utsunomiya, Japan. Tomoa started his climbing career with fellow Five Ten athlete Sachi Amma, in Sachi’s family climbing gym. Through his dedication to rock climbing, he has made...

Tomoa's Athlete Page 13 posts 5 videos

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