Shauna Coxsey has made the first female ascent of Hazel Grace (f8B+), on the Gotthard Pass, Switzerland.
The boulder, first climbed by Guiliano Cameroni in 2017, follows a thin seam across the face of the boulder, before climbing up its arete. Upon its first ascent, Cameroni proposed the grade of 8C, before repeat ascents saw the grade settle at 8B+.
The boulder is often cited of as one of the best in the world, with Will Bosi saying after his own ascent, back in 2021, that it was the 'best boulder' he'd ever climbed.
Cameroni went back to the boulder in 2021 and established a lower sit start to the boulder at 8C/+. The sit start, which requires two hand moves and a technical heel hook to rejoin to original line, has seen just two ascents since, from Florian Wientjes in late 2021, and from Dave Graham in October 2023.
Sharing the news on Instagram, Shauna had the following to say:
'This line is truly majestic and I honestly can not believe I pieced it together yesterday. Last day of the trip, sub optimal conditions but a magical moment let this one flow. So freaking proud to say I've done this'.
'Wedge Climbing caught it on camera for the Adidas Terrex film we are working on. No phone footage as I honestly didn't believe it was gonna happen'.
'I'll be watching the uncut on repeat though because there's a sitter to this epic line and I don't think I'm gonna be able to get it outta my mind…'
'Big love to Ned for the unconditional support and admirable psyche, to Arona Morrison for being the absolute best nanny ever and making a late evening session possible, and to Wedge Climbing for romping up a snowy mountain in less than ideal conditions and freezing your butt off for the footage!'
'Thanks so much to Adidas Terrex for making this trip happen! And of course to Giuliano Cameroni for the commitment to open such a GEM!'
Hazel Grace is Shauna's fourth boulder at 8B+, and her third 8B+ this year. She is one of just five female climbers to have climbed four or more boulders at 8B+ or harder.
Comments
Slow down Shauna, there'll be no climbs left if you carry on like this!
Such an incredible looking boulder!