Jacopo Larcher has made the seventh ascent of Ron Kauk's Vernal Falls trad route, Magic Line, 8c+.
The route was first climbed in 1996, and is one of the hardest single-pitch trad routes in Yosemite - alongside Beth Rodden's Meltdown, which Larcher climbed just under two years ago.
After waiting two decades for its first repeat, and seeing just four ascents in the first twenty-seven years of its existence, Larcher's ascent marks the third ascent of Magic Line in the last four weeks, with Connor Herson having climbed the route in late October - on his first lead attempt of the season - and Babsi Zangerl having made the route's second female ascent just last week.
Larcher has been in Yosemite Valley for the past three weeks, during which he has been working Magic Line, belaying Zangerl on her attempts, and exploring the other classic lines that the valley has to offer.
Whilst Zangerl attempted Magic Line last year, this was Larcher's first trip to try the route, although he took some photos of Hazel Findlay during her time on the route in 2019. Larcher placed all of his gear on lead during the successful ascent, having first practiced the route on top-rope.
In an email to UKC earlier this week, Jacopo said:
'What an iconic, Magic Line!'
'Besides the famous photograph of Ron Kauk's FA back in the day, I first got a glimpse of Magic Line when Hazel Findlay climbed it and I took some photos of her. I was amazed and intimidated at the same time by the line, but unfortunately over the years I never took the chance or the time to go and try it myself'.
'The opportunity eventually arrived, when last year Babsi came back home very enthusiastic after having tried it and was motivated for closing the circle this year. It wasn't difficult to talk me into joining!'
'I must admit, that at first I underestimated the complexity of the route and during my first days trying it, I felt completely lost. It's not the kind of the route that you can just power through if you're strong enough'.
'Everyone has to find his or her own beta to solve the intricate sequences and climb flawlessly in order to stay on those almost non-existent footholds'.
'It seems like everyone climbs the crux differently. You need to find the perfect balance between pushing, pulling, being confident enough, but not too much. You can feel great on it and fall at any moment, and the other way around. It's definitely a hard one for the mind. You really have to focus only on the moment, without overthinking'.
'When I finally figured out the crux and began to feel better on it, I naively thought I would stand a high chance of climbing the route if I were to get through the crux on lead. I quickly realized I was wrong'.
'Placing the tiny gear definitely adds some extra complexity and, even when I started to pass the crux on almost every lead try, I kept on falling off somewhere else, twice from the very last move'.
'The last days have been a rollercoaster. I have to admit that I felt unfounded pressure, both from my self and the outside, and I coped badly with it, not being my best self. It took some effort to shake off this pressure, but once more, the key to success was to simply enjoying the process and feeling lucky to share it with good people and be able to climb on such a gem!'
'Now, I'm almost sad that it's over'.
'This line and the process to climb it have taught me a lot and it means a lot to me. Big thanks to Babsi, Brent, Connor and Matthias for the good time and the support!... and thanks to Magic Line for the (life) experience'.
Comments
Funny how Jacopo picked a shoe that his sponsor, La Sportiva, no longer makes. One of their worst ideas ever, to stop making that shoe.