UKC

Will Bosi flashes Janja SD 8B+

© @tcpc5525

Will Bosi has made a flash ascent of Janja SD, 8B+, in Moravsky Kras, in the Czech Republic.

The ascent comes just a matter of days after Will flashed another 8B+ boulder, Dune.

Janja SD was first climbed by Martin Stráník in May 2020. Will first encountered the boulder on his very first visit to the Czech Republic in 2022, but poor conditions meant that the boulder was unclimbable.

'I first saw Janja back in 2022 when I came here for the first time', Will told UKC, 'One of the first days Adam took me on a walk around the area to show me the different sectors and we checked the bloc out. It was pretty wet that day though, so we just looked and talked about it being a good one to save for the flash, as it's only a couple moves and low to the ground so easy to see everything'.

Good conditions proved tricky to find, with the boulder wet on Will's second and third trips to the Czech Republic as well. Fortunately, this most recent trip found the boulder dry. Unfortunately, floods in the area had raised the ground by roughly a metre, meaning that Will needed to dig for two hours to clear the landing, and get the boulder into a climbable state. 

Once climbable, however, Will needed just a single attempt to climb the boulder, making the two year wait all the more worthwhile. 

'The boulder starts with a couple of ok intro moves to get a weird right hand crimp', Will said, 'from here you place a toe hook and do a crossover to a big left hand gaston crimp above your head. Then the crux of the boulder starts, which is the release of the toe and keeping tension as you walk your feet far to the right before the final hard couple of slaps out of the cave'.

When asked which of his two recent 8B+ flashes was the harder to flash, he said 'I think Dune is potentially harder to flash as it has very fast movements to tiny holds, which would be easy to miss. However, the feet on Janja SD make it very easy to slip, but I think Dune is still the harder to flash of the two'.

Having made the second ascent of Spots of Time (f9A) last month, Will made the journey to the Czech Republic with one of his long-term projects, Adam Ondra's Terranova, in mind. Despite conditions being far from optimal, Will has managed to have a few sessions on the boulder:

'I've had three sessions on Terranova, the first being terrible but in terrible conditions, the second being ok in ok conditions, and finally the third being really good in really good conditions… So I think my form is good, but I just need time and the weather to come together'.


Check out the video below to see Martin Stráník's first ascent of Janja SD, 8B+.


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Edinburgh born Will Bosi is one of the world's top climbers. At just 17 years of age, Will became the youngest Brit to have climbed 9a with his repeat of Rainshadow at Malham Cove. In 2018 he became first British male...

Will's Athlete Page 69 posts 38 videos



4 Nov, 2024

Well if he's flashing them, it's only one go so he's not getting tired out on repeated tries 😁 so it's no wonder he's managing a few.

How long until he flashes 8c? - strong fingers that lad.

4 Nov, 2024

Can't stop a Scottish hard man once he's had to get out a spade to make his route climbable!

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