UKC

New 8C+ and 8C boulders for Will Bosi

© @robbie _ meade

Will Bosi has made the first ascents of two new hard boulders in Switzerland, Brain Rot (f8C+), in Magic Wood, and Kyanite, 8C, in Val Bavona.

Both boulders had been projects of Dave Graham, who - along with Giuliano Cameroni - was showing Will some of the hard projects that Switzerland has to offer.

Will on Captain Nemo, 8C  © @robbie _ meade
Will on Captain Nemo, 8C
© @robbie _ meade

Will climbed the boulders in just two sessions each.

'Brain Rot is a perfect crimp power line', Will told UKC, 'which starts on these two slot crimps and then [has] just three moves on small incut edges. The emphasis here was moving well through a powerful, technical sequence'.

'Grade wise it's definitely far harder than any of the 8B+'s I've done this trip and suits me well, so I'm sure it's either 8C or 8C+. I decided to go for the plus but time will tell'.

'Kyanite is a left-hand version of Axinite (f8B+). You start in the same place and climb the initial moves of Axinite before breaking out left through a very steep roof. It is about double the moves of Axinite before returning you to the top-out of the original line, but not before a desperate gaston deadpoint move to rejoin the original line'.

Will on Kyanite, 8C  © @robbie _ meade
Will on Kyanite, 8C
© @robbie _ meade

Will's ticklist from the trip is as follows:

Brain Rot 8C+/V16 FA
Kyanite 8C/V15 FA
Captain Nemo 8C/V15
Axenite 8B+/V14
Embrace Gravity 8B+/V14
Space Cadet 8B+/V14
Ninjitsu 8B+/V14
Dag Addos 8B/V13
Finding Nemo 8A+/V12
Taijutsu 8A+/V12

During the trip, Will also took a brief look at the low start to Space Cadet, which both Dave and Giuliano are close to.

Dave Graham on the Space Cadet project  © @robbie _ meade
Dave Graham on the Space Cadet project
© @robbie _ meade

Will is now back in the UK focusing on local projects. A film of the trip will be live on the Adidas FiveTen channel later in the year, and footage of Will's ascent of Excalibur, 9b+, will be live on his own channel at the end of the month.


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Edinburgh born Will Bosi is one of the world's top climbers. At just 17 years of age, Will became the youngest Brit to have climbed 9a with his repeat of Rainshadow at Malham Cove. In 2018 he became first British male...

Will's Athlete Page 69 posts 38 videos



15 May

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