A drama exploring traditional climbing ethics on the sea cliffs of Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff, North Wales aired on BBC Radio 4 yesterday.
© BBC
A synopsis on BBC iPlayer reads:
'Tensions flare in the North Wales climbing community when a steel bolt appears on a sea cliff in Anglesey. Rhodri, a passionate adventure climber is totally against using bolts, but he's desperate to get the first ascent on a new climbing route, one that could really change his fortunes and the future of his marriage is dependent on raising enough money to qualify for a spouse visa.'
The drama was written by Tim Price, author of the National Theatre hit Nye and a keen outdoorsman who carried out extensive research into British climbing ethics. He told UKC:
'I saw a clip of Hazel Findlay talking about the complexities around UK climbing ethics from a film called Odyssey where she climbed the Cad on Gogarth. That led me to do some more research on bolting and climbing ethics in North Wales. My family and I practise responsible tourism when we holiday on Pen Llŷn every summer to make sure we support the conservation of those communities. My research into the climbing ethics dovetailed with this and so the story for The Bolt was born.'
Listen on BBC Sounds.
For some context on the ethics of bolting routes in the UK, read the following articles and forum discussions:
The BMC's Guide to ethics and bolting
Comments
I caught this about half way through when I went for a brew yesterday afternoon and I instantly went into cringe mode. That said, I've been back and listened to the whole thing today and now think that it's a fine effort whichever brave people decided to dip their toe. Some difficult bits, e.g. do people still check new route books or are they online, bringing a drill to bear like it's a no.10 nut, but some good detail as well, quartzite, Welsh language, social media.
Who was the climbing advisor? Despite some of the awkward dramatisation of climbing, there was quite a bit of geekery. I rather liked the following:
“It’s [(peg)bolts in N Wales] like a tide coming from the East.”
Actually, I practice responsible tourism unlike all you irresponsible ignoramuses
Sometimes there isn’t one, depends on the Producer - if radio, or Director if TV/feature. And to that, I have one numerous occasions provided advice on narrative and detail only for it to be politely declined in favour of someone else’s vision. Just one of those things.
Anyone need a belay? On route on a jet ski with some fresh drill bits