German climber Lara Neumeier has made the fourth ascent, and first female ascent, of Psychogramm (X), 8b+ (Trad) at Bürser Platte, Austria.
The route was first climbed by Austrian climber Alex Luger in 2014 and is situated next to Beat Kammerlander's trad test piece Prinzip Hoffnung (X+), which has become world renowned. Jacopo Larcher, who made the third ascent of Psychogramm described it as "a bouldery route, characterised by a long run out on a tiny nut". Lara herself described it as "technically demanding" and "mentally challenging".
It took Lara seven days to work the route, before climbing it in headpoint style, placing all gear on lead. She had this to say about the route: "the crux demanded everything: technique, precision, and trust in the protection. I managed to stick the crux move and climbed on, leaving the last piece of protection below me. The run-out to the belay was big and the last moves were a bit shaky, but I didn't let go. The last move. The last hold. Then clipping the chains. And I sent it. What an experience!"
Some may remember Lara visiting the UK back in 2017, when - aged just 19 - she repeated Chupacabra (E8 6c) and Point Blank (E8 6c) in Pembroke.
The video produced off the back of that trip is well worth watching, if you're in need of any spring sea cliff psyche!
In more recent years, Lara has focused her attention on Big Walls, free climbing the Muir Blast–El Corazon link-up with Babsi Zangerl in November 2023, and El Niño (Pineapple Express variation) (5.13c) with Nemuel Feurle in November 2024.
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