Noah Wheeler has repeated Sean Bailey's Font 9A/V17, Shaolin, in Red Rocks, Nevada. 

Wheeler started working on the boulder in January, attempting to link the crux section; a two-move Font8C/V15 that has to be climbed with 'near perfect accuracy,' all after a Font 8B/V13 start.

After seven days in January, Wheeler had another seven days working the problem in late February before climbing the problem. Writing about his ascent, he said:

'Shaolin forced self-mastery more than any boulder prior. Although I could stick the crux move (an accurate v13-level left-hand throw) 75% of the time in iso, climbing a stout v13 sequence into this was a whole other beast entirely.

'I was forced to learn and utilize my strongest grip position on the crux hold, to understand exactly how much force and pressure I could or should generate through my feet. To calibrate a given go in relation to all other experiences on the boulder. Once this move was eventually done from the start, only after I understood my body enough to enforce pre-session and mid-try confidence did I complete the last thruchy V11/12-level throw and take it to the top.'

Shaolin is Wheeler's second Font 9A/V17 after he climbed Return of the Sleepwalker late last year.

Watch the video of Sean Bailey making the first ascent here: