Spike Fullwood has made an ascent of Superman (f8B), at Crag X (Derbyshire), in Derbyshire.
The crag, made famous by the film One Summer, was one of the catalysts for the development of hard bouldering in the era of Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon, with Ned Feehally also having made numerous contributions up to 8B in more recent years.
Superman itself was first climbed by Moffatt in 1989, with Ben Moon adding a sit-start five years later in 1994. The stand was then re-climbed by Tim Clifford after a left hand-hold broke, with Ned Feehally making the first post-break ascent of the 8B+ sit.
Since then, Superman has represented a test-piece for the blessed few in possession of truly strong fingers, with ascents from climbers such as Max Milne, Will Bosi, and Aidan Roberts. Last year, Shauna Coxsey became the first woman to climb the boulder, describing it as 'a Peak classic I was almost sure I'd never do. A true finger strength test piece for sure'.
We got in touch with Spike shortly after he made the ascent to find out more:
Spike, congratulations on climbing Superman - your first 8th grade boulder outdoors, and one that you climbed in a single session! Did you head to Crag X with Superman in mind, or was giving it a go more of a spur of the moment thing?
I was keen to try a few things there, as it seemed like the conditions would be good after all the dry weather. I had seen vids before and thought Superman might be good as a hard thing to get on, but didn't really expect to do it any time soon.
Tell us a bit about your climbing history, and how you first got into it?
I'm fifteen now and have been climbing since before I can remember. Mum and Dad introduced me to it as early as possible really, so before I could walk even, two years old I'd guess.
I've been climbing lots, particularly in the Peak, Font, and Scotland since then. Lots of bouldering, and some sport and trad. I also trained with a squad at the Climbing Works from a young age.
You recently won the Junior BBC's, so you're doing well on the competition scene as well! Can you tell us a bit about the different things that the two disciplines offer to you?
Outside climbing is often hard to work out and quite subtle. The different rock types and places give really varied days out. Competitions are more intense and can be fairly brutal, but they're also very fun and social.
How did it feel to get to the top of Superman?
Great! It was extra special as there was a good gang at the crag when we turned up, including Ned and Shauna who've both done the climb and helped with beta and encouragement.
It was a bit of a surprise, but I knew I was strong on steep ground on crimps, so not totally out of the question.
We know that you've also played your part in establishing new boulders, some of which were included in the Wharncliffe Destination guide that Jim wrote, are there any boulders that you've established, or helped to establish, that you'd like to see get some repeats?
Yeah, doing new problems is amazing. It helps a lot going out with Dad as he knows the crags well, and where the gaps are. I think the only one that's not been repeated is Splaygus (f7B) near Kobe. It's lowball, but good climbing up a little prow.
What's Uippin'? (f7A) is a good new one (actually Doug got this first). That's had a couple of repeats and is deffo worth a look if you like steep crimps walls!
What other boulders, or areas, would you most like to check out over the next couple of months?
I've yet to boulder in Wales or Northumberland, I'm really keen for those. In the Peak I'd like to go back to Crag X to see if I can do the sitter to Superman, and try some other hard limestone things, maybe Fat Lip (f8B) at the Tor, or have a look at the Badger Cove stuff.
There's a new grit route I did on a top rope a while back, that would be good to do before it gets too warm, but I've also got my first season on international competitions starting at the end of April, so realistically I will be training indoors quite a lot.
Comments
Well done Spike.
Anyone know how hard it was before the hold snapped?
Without being a killjoy, it's probably worth mentioning how sensitive the access is here.
Keep a very low profile, and no venturing along to the other Buttress 😉
i believe it was considered 8A+ from the stand and 8B from the sit before the hold break.
Thanks.