UKC

David Fitzgerald establishes 'Yosemite's Hardest Boulder'

© @antigrav.wtf

David Fitzgerald has made the first ascent of the low start to Randy Puro's classic Yosemite testpiece, The Shield, 8A/V11. He has named the low start Last Line of Defense, and has proposed a grade of 8C+/V16.

The crux of the boulder revolves around a pair of pinches, firstly holding onto them whilst releasing a toe hook, and secondly, making a wide move off them to the left without allowing the right hand to come off.

The low start has been a project since not long after Puro made the first ascent of the standing start in 2006. Carlo Traversi was the first person to do the crux move to the left successfully, back in 2020, and has since stated that it was the 'hardest move' he's done, but that he 'was never able to piece the whole climb together despite a lot of effort'.

At 8C+, the boulder is one of the hardest in Yosemite. Keenan Takahashi, who made the third ascent of Yosemite's other 8C+/V16 offering - The Dark Side - has spent time on the boulder alongside Fitzgerald, and has suggested that Last Line of Defense is 'Yosemite's hardest boulder'.

Sharing news of the ascent on social media, Fitzgerald said:

'The fabled low start to 'The Shield' (a classic Valley tech-piece, established back in '06 by one of the true greats - Randy Puro)'.

'Whilst on a family roadtrip back in 2016, we drove the Valley loop and pit-stopped at 'Housekeeping'. I remember seeing chalk on the lower holds and assuming it had already been climbed. Gawked at it for a while, but couldn't make heads or tails of it. I knew how cryptic and subtle the rock type could be, as I had learned to climb on the same stuff back home, but this thing seemed unfathomable. It wasn't until I moved here that I learned of its semi-mythical status'.

'This Winter, after all these years, I finally dug in. Instant obsession. I quickly found myself locking antlers with the crux feature, a pair of narrow, tendonitis-inducing pinches. The two hardest moves are centered around this feature: an intense toe hook release and a spectre-esque move out left. Pull too hard and I'd often end up in a heap on the ground, knuckles gushing. Over the season, I learned to work with the feature and not against it, to move around it and not through it. A timeless Valley lesson'.

'Back in March, I managed to break through into the stand, only to tragically wet-fire off the topout crimps after a badly-timed downpour. Limped away with a bruised heel/ego, but thankfully nothing worse. It then held its ground for another six sessions until I eventually wore it down; the extra fight making it feel all the more memorable. Feels like the most complex section of rock I've ever linked and best thing I've ever climbed!'

'Watching the seasons shift, the moss on the wall grow and shrink with spells of precip, camping under the stars and pine, squirrels and mice running across the pads as I sat still… Incredible memories, but the sessions and thoughts I shared with others are what stands out and I truly felt every bit of support from the people around me this season'.

'A special thanks to Keenan Takahashi, Max Krimmer, and Carlo Traversi for all the shared sessions, loaned equipment, and support over the Winter'.

Last Line of Defense is Fitzgerald's first FA at 8C+, and his second ascent at the grade, having climbed Big Z in May last year.


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19 May

Not a single comment here, so I thought I would add one. This is a historic addition Yosemite's world class bouldering, located right opposite the classic roadside highball King Air V10 at the Curry Village boulders. Mind blowing effort by David, and such a beautiful, stunning line.

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