UKC

David Fitzgerald climbs Lucid Dreaming, 8CNewsflash

© Harrison Voorhees

David Fitzgerald has made the eighth ascent of the iconic Lucid Dreaming (V15), on the Grandpa Peabody Boulder, at the Buttermilks, USA.

Lucid Dreaming was first climbed in 2010 by Paul Robinson, who originally suggested a grade of 8C+, before revising his suggestion to 8C when the boulder was yet to receive a repeat. It has since seen ascents from some of the world's most acclaimed climbers, including Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Alex Megos, Toru Nakajima, and - late last year - Sean Bailey.

The boulder, which was the featured climb in the 2010 Reel Rock Film 'The Hardest Moves, was described by its first ascensionist as 'a new level in bouldering' with 'some of the hardest individual moves ever done'. The crux of the boulder is linking two hard moves low down, famously described by Daniel Woods as going from a 'sharp shark's tooth crimper, up to this really glassy quarter pad mini-pinch, and hitting that right, and being able to dyno all the way to this, like, half pad rounded crimp and control this near horizontal swing out'.

Whilst linking the two low moves is the physical crux, the psychological crux comes from the fact that the boulder continues for a further thirty feet, with a delicate slab top out.

Sharing news of the ascent on Instagram, Fitzgerald said: 'Huge thanks to everyone for the support, and to Harrison Voorhees for capturing the moment so perfectly'.

The boulder is Fitzgerald's second at 8C, having climbed Fallen Angel in Tahoe in 2022, as well as multiple boulders at 8B+.


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