UKC

Gold again for Erin McNeice in Bali

© IFSC

A week after sharing the top spot with Chaehyun Seo for her debut World Cup gold medal, Erin McNeice made it two golds in as many weeks - and four consecutive podium performances - with an assured performance at the Lead World Cup in Bali. 

Erin Bali 1  © IFSC
© IFSC

Yet again, it was Erin and Chaehyun that ended up battling it out for the top spot, this time with Ai Mori - fourth place finisher at the Paris Olympic games - representing a significant challenge throughout.

Ai Bali  © IFSC
© IFSC

With Ai and Erin both topping the qualification routes, and Erin and Chaehyun both topping the semi-final route, Erin was already in first place on countback going into the final, meaning there would be no repeat of the events in Wujiang, where identical scores - and timings - meant that both Erin and Chaehyun took home gold. 

And countback turned out to be crucial. With both Erin and Chaehyun topping the final route, Erin's performance on the first qualifying route - where she topped it, whilst Chaehyun Seo finished with a score of 44+ - meant that Erin took home the gold, with Chaehyun in second place, and Ai taking home the bronze.

Erin Bali 2  © IFSC
© IFSC

Speaking after her win, Erin said 'I wasn't too worried. I looked down at the clock and saw I had quite a lot of time and the top hold was quite good, but there is quite a lot of drag at the top of the wall doing a shoulder press after a hard route'.

'In a way I believed I could do it, but tiny things make a difference. I could have slipped so I was just happy I was able to execute'.

'I'm so, so happy. I knew the route had two tops already, so it was stressful to come out and get the top, but I was happy to come out and get it'.

Women's Podium  © IFSC
© IFSC

With back-to-back gold medals in Lead, and back-to-back bronze medals in boulder, Erin currently stands at 2nd place in the IFSC rankings for Boulder, Lead, and Combined, and is currently in first place in the 2025 IFSC Lead World Cup standings.

In the men's side of things, Rhys Conlon and Jamie Jenkins were unable to make it through qualifying, finishing in 30th and 46th place respectively, with Satone Yoshida and Sorato Anraku staking early claims for the top spot, finishing with identical scores in quaifying, just ahead of the ever consistent Alberto Gines-Lopez.

However, Sorato was unable to make it through a semi-finals round which saw the majority of the more established names, including Jesse Grupper and Taisei Homma, come short, meaning that there wasn't a single world cup winner amongst the finalists. As such, there would be a first-time gold medallist no matter what happened.

Max Bertone Bali  © IFSC
© IFSC

In the end, Satone Yoshida carried that same consistency through to the final, his score of 42 enough for the gold medal, whilst Max Bertone - brother of Oriane - also achieved a 'first' in taking home silver, whilst Alberto Gines-Lopez was able to secure his second bronze medal in as many events. 

Satone Bali  © IFSC
© IFSC

Speaking after his victory, Satone said 'I was very confident after getting first place in the semi-final and I went into the final very positive. But it is so humid, even when I chalked up a lot it was so sweaty and I sometimes struggled, but I was still confident'.

'I can't quite believe I got the gold medal yet, I'm too excited'.

Men's Podiium  © IFSC
© IFSC

A speedy mention also of Sam Watson of the USA, who broke his own Speed Climbing world record for the fifth time, bringing the new record down to an impressive 4.64 seconds.

Lead Women

RankNameNationSemi-finalFinal
1 Erin McNeice GBRTOPTOP
2 Chaehyun Seo KORTOPTOP
3 Ai Mori JPN4945
4 Laura Rogora ITA48+42+
5 Oceana Mackenzie AUS37+39+
6 Flora OBLASSER AUT3837+
7 Mia Krampl SLO37+34+
8 Rosa REKAR SLO37+31+
9 Hélène Janicot FRA37+
10 Heloïse Doumont BEL37+
10 Mei Kotake JPN37+
12 Chaeyeong KIM KOR37+
13 Zhillu Luo CHN37+
14 Natsumi ODA JPN37+
15 Sara Copar SLO35
16 Tereza Širůčková CZE33+
17 Ryu NAKAGAWA JPN32+
18 Michaela Smetanova CZE32+
19 Natsuki Tanii JPN31+
20 Ilaria Scolaris ITA31+

Lead Men

RankNameNationSemi-finalFinal
1 Satone YOSHIDA JPN36+42
2 Max Bertone FRA31+41
3 Alberto Ginés López ESP33+39+
4 Yannick Flohé GER35+30+
5 Dohyun Lee KOR33+30
6 Neo Suzuki JPN33+29+
7 Shion OMATA JPN33+16+
8 MUHAMMAD RIZKY SYAHRAFLI SIMATUPANG INA33+12
9 Filip Schenk ITA31+
10 Taisei Homma JPN30
11 Hiroto Shimizu JPN30
12 Hyunseung NOH KOR30
13 Jesse Grupper USA28+
14 Giovanni Placci ITA25+
15 Sascha Lehmann SUI25
16 Sorato Anraku JPN24+
17 Putra TRI RAMADANI INA24+
18 Raviandi Ramadhan INA24+
19 Victor Guillermin FRA24+
20 Ties Vancraeynest BEL24+
30 Rhys Conlon GBRQual: 26.74
46 James JENKINS GBRQual: 42.49

Full results can be found here.


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Erin McNeice
Rodmersham

Erin McNeice is a member of Team GB, Olympic Finalist, World Cup Podium-ist, and British Champion in both Boulder and Lead.

In 2024 she finished fifth in the Olympic Final in Paris, having qualified in third...

Erin's Athlete Page 13 posts 3 videos




9 May

Another storming result for Erin. AND a photo to top the article. Nice.

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