A week after sharing the top spot with Chaehyun Seo for her debut World Cup gold medal, Erin McNeice made it two golds in as many weeks - and four consecutive podium performances - with an assured performance at the Lead World Cup in Bali.
Yet again, it was Erin and Chaehyun that ended up battling it out for the top spot, this time with Ai Mori - fourth place finisher at the Paris Olympic games - representing a significant challenge throughout.
With Ai and Erin both topping the qualification routes, and Erin and Chaehyun both topping the semi-final route, Erin was already in first place on countback going into the final, meaning there would be no repeat of the events in Wujiang, where identical scores - and timings - meant that both Erin and Chaehyun took home gold.
And countback turned out to be crucial. With both Erin and Chaehyun topping the final route, Erin's performance on the first qualifying route - where she topped it, whilst Chaehyun Seo finished with a score of 44+ - meant that Erin took home the gold, with Chaehyun in second place, and Ai taking home the bronze.
Speaking after her win, Erin said 'I wasn't too worried. I looked down at the clock and saw I had quite a lot of time and the top hold was quite good, but there is quite a lot of drag at the top of the wall doing a shoulder press after a hard route'.
'In a way I believed I could do it, but tiny things make a difference. I could have slipped so I was just happy I was able to execute'.
'I'm so, so happy. I knew the route had two tops already, so it was stressful to come out and get the top, but I was happy to come out and get it'.
With back-to-back gold medals in Lead, and back-to-back bronze medals in boulder, Erin currently stands at 2nd place in the IFSC rankings for Boulder, Lead, and Combined, and is currently in first place in the 2025 IFSC Lead World Cup standings.
In the men's side of things, Rhys Conlon and Jamie Jenkins were unable to make it through qualifying, finishing in 30th and 46th place respectively, with Satone Yoshida and Sorato Anraku staking early claims for the top spot, finishing with identical scores in quaifying, just ahead of the ever consistent Alberto Gines-Lopez.
However, Sorato was unable to make it through a semi-finals round which saw the majority of the more established names, including Jesse Grupper and Taisei Homma, come short, meaning that there wasn't a single world cup winner amongst the finalists. As such, there would be a first-time gold medallist no matter what happened.
In the end, Satone Yoshida carried that same consistency through to the final, his score of 42 enough for the gold medal, whilst Max Bertone - brother of Oriane - also achieved a 'first' in taking home silver, whilst Alberto Gines-Lopez was able to secure his second bronze medal in as many events.
Speaking after his victory, Satone said 'I was very confident after getting first place in the semi-final and I went into the final very positive. But it is so humid, even when I chalked up a lot it was so sweaty and I sometimes struggled, but I was still confident'.
'I can't quite believe I got the gold medal yet, I'm too excited'.
A speedy mention also of Sam Watson of the USA, who broke his own Speed Climbing world record for the fifth time, bringing the new record down to an impressive 4.64 seconds.
Lead Women
Rank | Name | Nation | Semi-final | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Erin McNeice | GBR | TOP | TOP |
2 | Chaehyun Seo | KOR | TOP | TOP |
3 | Ai Mori | JPN | 49 | 45 |
4 | Laura Rogora | ITA | 48+ | 42+ |
5 | Oceana Mackenzie | AUS | 37+ | 39+ |
6 | Flora OBLASSER | AUT | 38 | 37+ |
7 | Mia Krampl | SLO | 37+ | 34+ |
8 | Rosa REKAR | SLO | 37+ | 31+ |
9 | Hélène Janicot | FRA | 37+ | |
10 | Heloïse Doumont | BEL | 37+ | |
10 | Mei Kotake | JPN | 37+ | |
12 | Chaeyeong KIM | KOR | 37+ | |
13 | Zhillu Luo | CHN | 37+ | |
14 | Natsumi ODA | JPN | 37+ | |
15 | Sara Copar | SLO | 35 | |
16 | Tereza Širůčková | CZE | 33+ | |
17 | Ryu NAKAGAWA | JPN | 32+ | |
18 | Michaela Smetanova | CZE | 32+ | |
19 | Natsuki Tanii | JPN | 31+ | |
20 | Ilaria Scolaris | ITA | 31+ |
Lead Men
Rank | Name | Nation | Semi-final | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Satone YOSHIDA | JPN | 36+ | 42 |
2 | Max Bertone | FRA | 31+ | 41 |
3 | Alberto Ginés López | ESP | 33+ | 39+ |
4 | Yannick Flohé | GER | 35+ | 30+ |
5 | Dohyun Lee | KOR | 33+ | 30 |
6 | Neo Suzuki | JPN | 33+ | 29+ |
7 | Shion OMATA | JPN | 33+ | 16+ |
8 | MUHAMMAD RIZKY SYAHRAFLI SIMATUPANG | INA | 33+ | 12 |
9 | Filip Schenk | ITA | 31+ | |
10 | Taisei Homma | JPN | 30 | |
11 | Hiroto Shimizu | JPN | 30 | |
12 | Hyunseung NOH | KOR | 30 | |
13 | Jesse Grupper | USA | 28+ | |
14 | Giovanni Placci | ITA | 25+ | |
15 | Sascha Lehmann | SUI | 25 | |
16 | Sorato Anraku | JPN | 24+ | |
17 | Putra TRI RAMADANI | INA | 24+ | |
18 | Raviandi Ramadhan | INA | 24+ | |
19 | Victor Guillermin | FRA | 24+ | |
20 | Ties Vancraeynest | BEL | 24+ | |
30 | Rhys Conlon | GBR | Qual: 26.74 | |
46 | James JENKINS | GBR | Qual: 42.49 |
Full results can be found here.
Comments
Another storming result for Erin. AND a photo to top the article. Nice.