UKC

Mejdi Schalck and Oriane Bertone come out top in Prague

© Lena Drapella/IFSC

Last Friday, the IFSC Word Cup returned to Prague, in the Czech Republic, for the fourth boulder World Cup of the season.

With home nation - and global - favourite Adam Ondra reporting that this would be his last ever appearance on the Boulder World Cup circuit, the Prague World Cup was one that offered plenty to remember, albeit not always for the reasons you might expect...

Adam Ondra says farewell to World Cup Bouldering  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
Adam Ondra says farewell to World Cup Bouldering
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

As in Salt Lake City, British representation in Prague was strong. Erin McNeice led the charge in qualification, finishing in third place, with Emma Edwards squeezing into semi-finals too in 25th, and Zoë Peetermans finishing in 33rd. In the men's, Jack MacDougall qualified in an impressive 5th, Toby Roberts and Max Milne shared 19th, and Hamish McArthur follwed closely behind in 23rd, all making semi-finals. Dayan Akhtar and Sam Butterworth didn't quite make the cut, finishing in 31st and 53rd respectively.

When it came to the semis, it was a similar story to that of Salt Lake City for the men, with all four missing out on the final - Jack MacDougall by just one place.

Jack MacDougall came closest on the men's side  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
Jack MacDougall came closest on the men's side
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

However, whilst semis were as far as it went for Emma Edwards in Salt Lake City, she managed to go one step further in Prague, progressing to the final in 5th place, with Erin just ahead in 4th.

Emma Edwards qualified for a debut final  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
Emma Edwards qualified for a debut final
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

Peculiarly, though, Emma will have to wait for her first appearance in a World Cup final. Windy weather and 'the inability to ensure the safety of the athletes and spectators' led to the final of the Women's side of Finals day being cancelled, meaning that the results from the semi-final stood.

As such, it was Oriane Bertone - who missed out on gold in Curitiba by 0.1 points, and who missed out on a podium position in Salt Lake City due to countback - who took the top spot, her second in her career, having also won in Prague at its debut on the World Cup circuit in 2023.

Oriane Bertone was back on the top spot  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
Oriane Bertone was back on the top spot
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

Speaking after the semi-finals, Oriane said:

'When I was in qualis I walked through the same corridors I did when I won. I feel happy, and I want to show again I am able to do it. The first three comps were frustrating for me, as I know I have the level to do great things, but I am so close, yet not doing it. If I could do it here, that would be so awesome."

'I don't have much volume since I started climbing again. I took two months off after the Olympic Games and volume isn't my big strength at the moment, so I am trying less but with more quality than trying a lot and wasting tries. It wastes energy, and I want to avoid this'.

'I'm quite happy because I topped a bunch of boulders. I'm a bit disappointed I didn't top the last one, it was just a bit weird, and I didn't manage to find my way. It was a flash or fail boulder. Going up again was a bit hard, it was very pushy, and being tall it was quite hard – not an excuse, just I know now what I need to work on'.

Oriane's teammate Agathe Calliet joined her on the podium - her first time in World Cups - in second place, whilst Melody Sekikawa of Japan took home the bronze medal, also her first time on the podium.

Women's Podium  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
Women's Podium
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

On the men's side of things, sadly it wasn't to be the fairytale ending we wanted for Adam Ondra. Whilst he qualified comfortably for the semi-finals, his 15th place finish in the semis meant Adam had officially completed his final round of World Cup Bouldering.

He would, however, be back in Prague the following year, albeit in a discipline he finds slightly more appealing:

With Sorato Anraku qualifying for the final in first place, and Mejdi Schalck, Sohta Amagasa, and Dohyun Lee a stone's throw behind, it promised to be the same familiar faces on the podium, likely with the same person on top. 

However, Sorato was unable to make it four golds from four appearances, having instead to settle for the silver medal - incredibly, his second worst finish of the entire World Cup season so far, across both Boulder and Lead. 

'Two years ago here I was seventh, last year I was fourth, and now second, so next year, first', he said, 'Honestly, I'm not disappointed with the result. The final had a lot of coordination, I'm not bad at it, but I'm not great either. I have to say the boulders and the crowd here were amazing'.

With a 5th place finish in Keqiao, a 2nd place finish in Curitiba, and a 6th place finish in Salt Lake City, it was finally Mejdi's turn to take home the gold in Prague. Finishing fifteen points clear of Sorato, he was a deserving winner, for what is now the fifth time in Boulder World Cups.

'It feels a bit like a comeback because last year I had a pretty hard year. I didn't qualify for the Olympics, so I stayed focused and trained really hard this winter, so it's a comeback. I'm back, and it feels good to be back', he said.

Mejdi Schalck makes a comeback  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
Mejdi Schalck makes a comeback
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

'I really liked all the boulders; it was a lot of coordination and dynamic boulders which is really my style, so I liked it. The second was the hardest, I was the only climber to send it, and it was a big fight for that. It was crazy. The crowd was cheering, and it was amazing'.

Compatriot Samuel Richard finished third, meaning France took four of the six medals available, with Japan taking the other two. 

'I felt pressure after semis but I was relieved I was in finals as it was a bit of a lifetime objective' Samuel said. 'To medal too is crazy. I was relaxed in finals, shaking a little, but I was in the mood because I knew it was already good just making it there'.

Men's Podium  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
Men's Podium
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

Boulder Women

RankNameNationSemi-finalFinal
1 Oriane Bertone FRA84.8
2 Agathe Calliet FRA69.7
3 Melody SEKIKAWA JPN69.5
4 Erin McNeice GBR69.3
5 Anon MATSUFUJI JPN54.5
5 Emma Edwards GBR54.5
7 Buckley Jennifer SLO54.1
8 Geila MACIÀ MARTÍN ESP53.8
9 Miho Nonaka JPN44.6
10 Lily ABRIAT FRA44.4
11 Oceana Mackenzie AUS44.3
12 Annie Sanders USA44.1
12 Anastasia Sanders USA44.1
13 Chloe Caulier BEL39.4
14 Flora OBLASSER AUT39.0
15 Ayala Kerem ISR38.5
16 Camilla Moroni ITA34.1
17 Kyra Condie USA29.1
18 Ai Mori JPN24.9
19 Mao Nakamura JPN19.9
20 Lucile Saurel FRA19.6
33 Zoe Peetermans GBRQual: 59.5

Boulder Men

RankNameNationSemi-finalFinal
1 Mejdi Schalck FRA69.999.1
2 Sorato Anraku JPN84.384.1
3 Samuel RICHARD FRA54.084.1
4 Sohta Amagasa JPN69.569.5
5 YuFei Pan CHN69.069.2
6 Hannes Van Duysen BEL53.669.0
7 Dohyun Lee KOR69.359.9
8 Anze Peharc SLO59.144.2
9 Jack Macdougall GBR49.7
10 Antoine Girard FRA44.8
11 Elias Arriagada Krüger GER44.7
12 Max Bertone FRA44.6
12 Daiki SANO JPN44.6
14 Hamish McArthur GBR44.5
15 Adrien Lemaire FRA44.4
15 Adam Ondra CZE44.4
17 Kento YAMAGUCHI JPN39.6
18 Thomas LEMAGNER FRA39.5
19 Jan-Luca Posch AUT29.9
20 Toby Roberts GBR29.5
23 Maximillian Milne GBR20.0
31 Dayan Akhtar GBRQual: 68.4
53 Samuel BUTTERWORTH GBRQual: 54.3

Full results available here.


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11 Jun

Shame about the women's final being cancelled due to bad weather. Felt like an anti climax.

And two Brits qualified for the final - awesome work!

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