Lee Sungsu has made the fifth ascent of Burden of Dreams (f9A), two days after invalidating his own ascent due to his t-shirt brushing the pads when pulling up for the first move.
Sharing the news on social media, Lee said:
'This was supposed to be my send go… watching the footage the next day, I realized my shirt touched the pad. I didn't feel it at the time or I would not have kept going. I know this is technically a dab, but I swear it didn't change anything. I can't believe this happened and I know it's not a perfect ascent… what do you guys think?'
Responses were almost unanimous in declaring that the ascent was valid, the Alex Megos, Ethan Pringle, Yannick Flohe, and Tyler Landman all suggesting that he got no assistance from the 'dab', and congratulating Lee on the ascent.
Yet it wasn't good enough for Lee himself, who returned to the boulder two days after he first climbed it, and climbed it all over again - just to make sure.
'If I left with only the dab it would haunt me forever…' he said on Instagram, 'Well, went full shirtless this time'.
'The dream came sooner than I thought and was not far away. Now I am looking for another dream. Thank you for helping me achieve my dream quickly'.
Lee's ascent is the boulder's fifth, with Nalle Hukkataival first climbing the boulder in 2016, Will Bosi making the first repeat in April 2023, Simon Lorenzi making the third ascent in December 2023, and Elias Iagnemma making the fourth ascent in 2024. Despite offering only five holds, Burden of Dreams has seen multiple different approaches in terms of beta. Lee opted for the same beta used by Simon Lorenzi, involving a deep dropknee to cut out foot movements before the tough match.
Prior to climbing Burden of Dreams, Lee had just a single ascent at 8C+ to his name, that of The Process (V16), at The Buttermilks, USA.
Comments
I think it says a lot about his ethics to go back and 'repeat' it, to eliminate his perceived dab. In my opinion, he's done it twice. 👍
A lot of people would agree… me included.
but for the purists out there, and keyboard climbers. Well even they can’t argue now.
Damn now I really want an Asahi
I thought, OK he didn't feel anything but maybe he did dab so good that he did it again. Then I watched the dab video - I don't think I would have even noticed it if that wasn't what the whole vid is about! So put me down in the "strong lad has done it twice" camp now. :-)
I wonder what the locals of Lappnor are making off all these skinny dudes from all around the world turning up with the inevitable cameras, tripods, lights, fans, and ladders in tow? I remember Bosi's repeat made it into Helsingin Sanomat, so perhaps there's a bit more knowledge of what this bouldering thing actually is!
I have got to go and redo so many boulders now 🤣😬
So impressive to hold it all together to do it twice.