Matt took six days spread over two weeks to tick the route, battling wet conditions on the lower half.
"It was pretty frustrating having the bottom wet most of the time, so it was a case of working the top and trying some links until it dried out a bit. When it was dry enough it went down on my second proper redpoint."
The route is a long and steep limestone endurance route and is one of the more popular 8cs in the UK.
Although ascents of 8c are not internationally significant in these days of young super-mutants (Adam Ondra has ruined it for everyone else!), they are quite rare in the UK.
"I know some people are starting to question whether 8c is newsworthy any more, and on a global scale it's probably not, and also for the people who are regularly climbing at this level it's not a massive deal, but within the UK it still doesn't happen that often and those breaking the grade probably deserve a mention, as it takes a lot of time and effort to get there. Just because more people are climbing at this level doesn't make the routes any easier!"
Well done Matt!
Matt Pickles is sponsored by Blox and Wild Country
Ahead of the launch of The Project - an innovative and inclusive new 'competition' format - at the Klättercentret... Read more
Our Friday Night Video this week is a tour through some of the most idyllic scenery in the British isles; a 400km ultra-running... Read more
Giuliano Cameroni has repeated Martin Keller's Der mit dem Fels tanzt, ~8C, at Chironico, Ticino,... Read more
Rubén Díaz has repeated Alberto "Beto" Rocasolano's La teoría del todos at Albarracín in... Read more