In 2000, Fred Nicole put up Oliphant's dawn in Rocklands. Supposedly, he had difficulties making up his mind regarding the grade, saying it was somewhere between 8B and 8C. Now, after 12 years, Nalle Hukkataival has become the first to repeat it.
Adam Ondra, Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods and many more have tried this steep and rather peculiar three move power problem, which consists of small crimpers and a weird thumb catch, but, until now, no body has been close. This quote of Adam's is quite telling:
After one hour of sessioning I walked away having done none of the moves. And I heard that a bunch of people walked away with same result. All my esteem to you, Fred!
So, anyway, now, after having made quick work of things like A simple knowing, ~8B+, Golden shadow (see video below), ~8B+, and King of limbs, ~8B/+, Nalle managed to grab the 2nd ascent of this almost mythical problem.
I asked Nalle why thinks he was able to succeed where everyone else has failed. The answer was simple:
It's a pure power problem. 3 moves. Very straight forward which makes it possible to do it fast if you have the strength. It's very specific and tricky to grade do to its simple natureHe says he now has plenty of projects to try and that he already in the last days has put up a couple amazing new lines.
Here is the latest video from Clément Perotti. Enjoy!
Photo courtesy of 27crags
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