The route, well known for being the world's first 8c, was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich back in 1987.
"One of my Dad's climbing friends gave me a framed poster of Güllich on Wall Street when I was around 12 years old. I had it hanging on my bedroom wall for years. I was always amazed by how Güllich could hold on with just 2 fingers and never thought that I would one day climb the same route.
I tried the route in Summer and was unable to climb it. I couldn't stop thinking about the mythical route and organised a short trip to the Frankenjura with Sabby and my Dad. We met my Dad at Munich airport and drove straight to the Krottenseer Turm. The first day on it was cold and I fell a few times from the last hard move due to frozen fingers. That night it snowed and the route was soaked the next day. We spent the day at the Fight Club bouldering wall in Betzenstein. I had pretty much accepted that I would have to wait until next year when I woke up on Sunday morning to fresh snow. We walked up the crag and the rock was bone dry. Wall Street looked awesome and I was determined to climb it that day. I fell a few times from the top again with numb fingers and waited some time before my last go. My skin was battered but I gave the route everything and topped out in relief.
I'm looking forward to spending some more time in Frankenjura next year."
Top effort Stew! And the photos look stunning.
Stewart Watson is sponsored by La Sportiva, Wild Country and Chillaz
You can follow Stew on his blog: stewartwatsonclimbing.blogspot.com
This week's Friday Night Video follows Irish climber David Fitzgerald on Voyager Sit Start 8B+ at Burbage North. After sending... Read more
The 2017 Berghaus Dragon's Back Race came to a sizzling climax yesterday, as competitors completed the 5-day route in... Read more
14 year old Emily Phillips from Cardiff placed 3rd in the IFSC European Youth Cup (Bouldering) in Soure, Portugal last... Read more
Christof Rauch has made the first ascent of Carinthian Dreams, ~8C, in Kärnten, southern Austria. This was his third of the... Read more
Christof Rauch has made the first ascent of Styrian Delirium in West Steiermark, which should be right in the middle of Austria.... Read more
18 year old Pete Dawson recently made an incredibly fast repeat of Tony Mitchell's True North 8c on Kilnsey North Buttress,... Read more