INTERVIEW: 2nd ascent of Classified, ~9a+, by Moroni

by Björn Pohl - UKC Sep/2013
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Gabriele Moroni ticking off Classified, 9a+, 73 kb
Gabriele Moroni ticking off Classified, 9a+
© Moroni collection Instagram

Gabriele Moroni has made the second ascent of Alexander Megos' Classified, ~9a+, on the Holzgauer wand, Frankenjura.

The route, which has been described as a ~20m fiesta of small shallow pockets followed by even smaller shallower ones, is a direct exit to Guido Köstermeyer's Des Mos, 8b+, and was bolted by Christian Bindhammer some 10 years ago. Before Alex' ascent it had been tried by Bindhammer and Markus Bock without success.

Here is an interview with Gabri:

Hi Gabri, what can you tell me about the ascent?
Well, it was actually unexpected!
I tried the route on and off for a couple of weeks, just after the competition in Stuttgart [Adidas Rockstars].
Already from the first tries I thought it was possible I and had some good attempts, but the weather has been pretty bad, so I moved on The Elder statesman [9a], tried it a couple of days and got really close, falling at the last hard move...

So two days ago I took a restday and yesterday morning I came back to try to finish it... but it went pretty bad and I got pissed off. A friend of mine had his project in Holzgauer wand where Classified is. So we got there and decided to try again the moves one more time. It felt really good so I decided to give one serious attempt and after a big fight I got to the top.
All in all it took me around 15 tries in not always the best conditions

Is it correct to say the route is mostly about small pockets?
The route basically starts on the old Guido Köstermeyer 8b+ called Des Mos. You climb all the hard part of this route then you have a hard boulder on a bulge at around 8A+/B on bad pockets and a sloper.

8b+ into 8A+/B sounds absolutely nails!
It is man. It's definitely a step above the other 9a's here.

Yes, about that, I know you had a chat with Alex yesterday about the grade...
Yeah I talked with Alex and, although it feels harder than the other 9a's we both think it doesn't warrant 9a+, so the grade needs a slash. 9a/a+ sounds alright.

Would you say this is your hardest route to date?
Yes i think so and I am in my best shape ever.

Are you still in Franken?
Yes for another 10 days then I'm going to Kalymnos.

Alright, so do you have any projects left?
Yeah, the Elder Statesman and another 9a called Sever the wicked hand.

Thanks a lot Gabri and best of luck with your projects!

Here is a video from Gabri's visit to Frankenjura in April this year, together with Silvio Reffo.

Gabriele Moroni is sponsored by Five Ten, E9 and Petzl

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