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IFSC Boulder World Cup: Hachioji - Report

The fifth round of the 2018 IFSC Boulder World Cup series took place in Hachioji, Japan last weekend. In what was perhaps the most exciting round so far, technical routesetting, a large crowd and innovative projected graphics on the wall showed that Tokyo is ready for the 2020 Olympic Games. Michaela Tracy and Shauna Coxsey narrowly missed out on finals, finishing in 8th and 9th respectively, and Billy Ridal made semi-finals and achieved his best placing yet - 14th.

Akiyo Noguchi competing in Hachioji.  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Akiyo Noguchi competing in Hachioji.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Results below highlights and finals videos (don't scroll if you don't want to know!!)

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Hachioji (JPN) 2018

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4T4z 4 4 3T3z 5 5
2 Miho Nonaka JPN 2T4z 4 6 3T3z 6 6
3 Ekaterina Kipriianova RUS 2T3z 2 5 2T2z 6 5
4 Stasa Gejo SRB 2T4z 4 5 0T2z 0 5
5 Alma Bestvater GER 2T4z 7 6 0T2z 0 6
6 Futaba Ito JPN 2T4z 3 6 0T1z 0 9
7 Fanny Gibert FRA 2T3z 6 3
8 Michaela Tracy GBR 1T4z 4 13
9 Shauna Coxsey GBR 1T3z 1 3
10 Sierra Blair-Coyle USA 1T3z 1 6
11 Katja Kadic SLO 1T3z 2 4
12 Urska Repusic SLO 1T3z 2 6
13 Alannah Yip CAN 1T3z 3 6
14 Kyra Condie USA 1T3z 5 6
15 Tomoko kajima JPN 1T2z 2 3
16 Sol Sa KOR 0T4z 0 8
17 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS 0T3z 0 7
18 Claire Buhrfeind USA 0T3z 0 9
19 Johanna Färber AUT 0T1z 0 2
20 Oceania Mackenzie AUS 0T1z 0 4
45 Jennifer Wood GBR Qual' 1T3z 3 4
60 Imogen Horrocks GBR Qual' 0T2z 0 9
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Gabriele Moroni ITA 3T4z 5 6 2T4z 3 6
2 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 3T4z 5 7 1T3z 1 6
3 Rei Sugimoto JPN 3T4z 17 18 1T3z 4 8
4 Jongwon Chon KOR 3T4z 8 9 1T2z 2 6
5 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 3T4z 5 10 0T2z 0 4
6 Kai Harada JPN 3T4z 8 7 0T1z 0 8
7 Mickael Mawem FRA 2T4z 3 4
8 Jernej Kruder SLO 2T4z 3 5
8 Michael Piccolruaz ITA 2T4z 3 5
10 Meichi Narasaki JPN 2T3z 3 3
11 Tomoaki Takata JPN 1T4z 1 9
12 Sergii Topishko UKR 1T4z 3 5
13 Yuji Fujiwaki JPN 1T4z 11 20
14 William Ridal GBR 1T3z 1 4
15 Jason Holowach CAN 1T3z 2 8
16 Kokoro Fujii JPN 1T3z 3 5
17 Kim Marschner GER 1T3z 3 8
18 Manuel Cornu FRA 1T3z 5 4
19 Alex Khazanov ISR 0T3z 0 7
20 Anze Peharc SLO 0T2z 0 5
39 Nathan Phillips GBR Qual' 0T3z 0 4
45 Tyler Landman GBR Qual' 0T3z 0 7
69 Maxwell Ayrton GBR Qual' 0T3z 0 7
Full results

The Japanese team entered a total of 21 climbers into their home round, 11 of whom made the top 20. Akiyo Noguchi continued her top form by flashing every problem in the semis and flashing problem 4 in the final to take the win. Problem 3 was the only problem in the entire competition that Noguchi didn't top. Miho Nonaka (JPN) took 2nd place and Ekaterina Kipriianova (RUS) won her first IFSC Boulder World Cup medal.

Italy's Gabriele Moroni is somewhat of a veteran of the IFSC circuit, having started competing in 2004. After 14 years, he finally won his first IFSC Boulder World Cup in Hachioji - and convincingly so. In order to beat Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), he needed to reach the zone. Not only did he manage this, but he continued to fight his way up the boulder to match the finishing hold on his flash attempt. 'I've been waiting for this moment my whole career!' he told the IFSC. Rei Sugimoto (JPN) finished 3rd in front of a home crowd.

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Sierra Blair-Coyle
Scottsdale, AZ

Hailing from Scottsdale, Arizona, 25-year-old Sierra Blair-Coyle has been competing professionally since the age of 14.  Voted one of the Top 99 Most Outstanding Women of 2015 by AskMen, she has also been a World Cup...

Sierra's Athlete Page 6 posts

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6 Jun, 2018

A great comp, and Percy Bishton's final IFSC event apparently. Great co-commenting from Percy in the semis and Alex Khazanov in the men's final.

Looks like Akiyo is back in top form this year, the way she was a few years ago, but now with less competition. Impressive all round, particularly in the semi-final.

Surprised Shauna didn't place higher. Messing about on lumps of rock is obviously a poor substitute for the real thing.

The men's final was another really good one. Despite the lack of ascents it worked really well with that spectacular finish. Fantastic effort by both Tomoa and Gabri on the final problem.

8 Jun, 2018

Rarely post on here but that was the best men's final I've seen.  Definitely worth a watch but maybe not the same after reading the spoiler.

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