Fabian Buhl has made the 4th ascent of Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung, ~8b+E9/10, at Bürser Platte, Vorarlberg, Austria.
What's quite remarkable about this ascent is that Fabi normally doesn't climb routes at all, especially not trad routes:
After my second ankle fracture within 6 months, I was walking again, but jumping down was forbidden to me for another 3 weeks. So I searched for some alternative experience where I didn't have to jump down, therefore I started trying the trad climb from Beat Kammerlander Prinzip Hoffnung 8b+ E9-10.
Due to the reason that I hadn't climbed on a rope since two years or so, I was quite astonished when I could climb it on toprope on my second day.
From this point on I wanted to try it on lead, but I had never climbed with gear, so I didn't know how my mental strength was. But luckily I fell only once in my first try, after this I had more trust in the micro protection and could climb more relaxed, for me this was the key to the redpoint.
I was really happy, that I could climb my first 8b+ route, for me it is even nicer that it is also a trad climb and that it has such a great history. I want to thank Jacopo Larcher and Chri Bindhammer for the support and a special thanks go out to Beat for this amazing climb!
Maybe it was not the best Rehab plan ;-) but great!
It also was perfect timing, now I am allowed to jump down again ;-)
Maybe this is where I should mention that although Fabi hasn't climbed a lot of routes, he is a very accomplished boulderer with ascents of things like Dreamtime, Anam Cara, Santoku and American Gangster, to name just a few.
This week's Friday Night Video takes us to the Arctic archipelago of the Lofoten Islands in Norway, where granite towers pierce... Read more
A handful of books by British authors and publishers have made the longlist in the prestigious Banff Mountain Book Competition,... Read more
Fabian Buhl has made the first ascent of Ganesha, 8c multi pitch, on the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Steinplatte, Austria.... Read more
Fabian Buhl has made a winter solo ascent of Alexander Huber's Wetterbockwand at Hohee Göll. The hardest pitch of this... Read more