Dutch climber Marianne van der Steen has made the first ever known flash of a D13+ drytooling route with KamaSutra at Bus del Quai, Iseo, Italy in-between rounds of the Ice Climbing World Cup.
The route is semi-natural, with a combination of drilled pockets and natural holds. Marianne told UKC:
"The only reason I went up there was because Gordon McArthur got his axe stuck up there at about 2/3 up the long route. I thought it would be way too much for me to climb it. I'm not a very good climber when under pressure and when people watch me climb. It makes me insecure. Maybe that was just the thing I actually needed. Going up without any expectations.
"As I had a cold I thought I'd be out of breath after four moves anyway. I also didn't have much time to train over the previous months. But surprisingly enough I felt fine and at the short rests in the route I could recover so well."
Ice Climbing World Cup competitor Marianne describes herself as a slow climber, preferring to take her time, which was to her advantage on this lengthy pitch:
"Maybe that's why I never do too well in World Cups where time is a really big issue. On my first M9+ six years ago it took me 45 minutes to do the onsight. But when I can keep my head clear I can always recover, no matter what route and that was a great advantage in this huge, long climb."
Italian ice climber, three-time World Cup Champion and KamaSutra's first ascensionist Angelika Rainer was on hand to offer beta for Marianne's attempt. Marianne commented:
"Angelika helped me out on some of the moves where it wasn't too clear to find the holds. It was super nice to have had her around, without her advice it would have been a different story I guess."
Initially unaware of her achievement, Marianne described her nonchalant reaction to completing the climb:
"When I got to the ground I was even able to untie my knot and climb another route. Not pumped at all. Therefore it didn't feel like I'd done something super difficult. It was only later that evening when I realised and heard probably no one had ever done a D13+ flash. Not even my good friends Jeff Mercier and Gaëtan Raymond had done this yet."
Having finished the competition season with a World ranking of 15th, Marianne is now looking forward to more drytooling and mixed climbing:
"Hopefully the routes up at the Breitwangflue can be done, I'd love to go there next!"
Watch a video of Angelika Rainer making the first ascent below:
Mammut have released the next in their 'Classics' series and we're in Fontainebleau this week. Jacky Godoffe first climbed... Read more
Over the last few days the UKC development team has been putting the finishing touches to a few new features, most of which... Read more
The fifth round of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup took place over the weekend in Vail, Colorado. Shauna Coxsey returned to the top... Read more
Steve McClure has finally ticked his long-term super project at Malham Cove to establish the UK's first 9b. The line starts up... Read more