The Big Issue (E9 6c) for McHaffie and Pasquill

by Nick Brown - UKC Aug/2017
This news story has been read 7,632 times

James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill have made quick ascents of The Big Issue (E9 6c) at Bosherston Head, Pembroke. They both had an onsight attempt at the route the previous week, only to be thrown off by the technical crux. However, both returned the following weekend and completed the climb.

Ryan Pasquill approaching the technical crux on The Big Issue, 185 kb
Ryan Pasquill approaching the technical crux on The Big Issue
© Mike Hutton

James McHaffie strung out on the stunning wall, 196 kb
James McHaffie strung out on the stunning wall
© Mike Hutton
After falling from an onsight attempt, James tied off the old peg and did the crux and then lowered down, thinking they would both climb it on their next attempt. Unfortunately, they were scuppered by hot weather and also hadn't anticipated that the upper section of the route would be the lead crux. Their final day was thrown off course by a heavy night and bad weather…

Both James and Ryan returned the following week. They warmed up on Pleasure Dome and Mutiny on the Bounty before setting their sights on the main objective. Caff told UKC:

'I wanted to do it first go putting the kit in but lobbed off the techy mid crux.

Ryan, Maddy (Cope) and Emma (Twyford) had a burn and I did it next go, having left the kit in the first half. Ryan had a great effort, having gotten close on his 2nd go, he got through it when the rock went quite gop really near the end of the day.

'The route's got an amazing finishing headwall with a cutloose move that both me and Ry nearly dropped. Emma and Maddy looked strong as sin on it…'

The route was originally climbed by John Dunne in 1996. John used the peg and some stuck wires, but placed most of the gear on lead. The name refers to the debolting of the line, at a time when bolts were being used on certain first ascents in Pembroke. Below is the film featuring John Dunne on The Big Issue.

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