Fri Night Vid Siurana - A Limestone Paradise
In this week's Friday Night Video, we follow Robbie Phillips and friends to Siurana, Catalunya, where he aims to regain some sport climbing fitness to tackle James Pearson's Le Voyage. It had been a decade since Robbie had been...
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What a lovely, good natured, beautiful film.
Thanks
Coincidentally, I was listening to Anouar Braham's "Maqams" which segued nicely in and out of it.
Indeed a lovely film, but my critical head heard lots of talk about risk, runouts and marginal gear, while my eyes saw nothing but bolt-protected sport routes. I know there's plenty of potential for both at Wadi Rum, and I've done some fantastic examples of both, but there definitely seemed a disconnect between what they were portraying visually and what they were making verbal references to. Almost like they were suggesting you could have the best of both worlds - the safety of bolts but the adventure satisfaction of unpredictable gear.
Definitely worth going to Rum for either, but the two really don't make for easy bedfellows.
Wadi Rum Quite right John, nice film but bolted routes are happily few in Rum. The best routes are trad and long may it remain so. Just read elsewhere on UKC that a bolt has been added to Orange Sunshine, a classic route to reach Burdah Rock Bridge. It's a VS with more than adequate trad pro, so why the bolt? Keep Rum rock clean!
I think this thing about "risk, runouts and marginal gear" is a bit of a recurrent theme in videos by US climbers. It helps make them look cool when, as you say, the reality is that they are bolting. It wouldn't sound half as good if they talked of safe falls and reduced danger.
Despite this being a well put together film, I can't help but feel some sadness when I see the number of bolts being placed. I was under the impression when I visited in 2010 that the general ethic (amongst the local Beduin and visiting climbers) was for no new bolt to be placed. It would appear Wadi Rum is firmly on the "climbing circuit" now and I really hope its beauty can be preserved.
Putting to one side the ethical argument I can't imagine these bolts will be replace in 10/20/30 years from now. I hope I'm wrong...