IFSC Lead World Cup Chamonix: Report
The first round of the IFSC Lead World Cup took place in a rainy Chamonix at the start of this week (11th-12th July). Slovenian teammates Domen Škofic and Janja Garnbret took Gold in an exciting final where the athletes put on a brilliant performance in the wind and rain on the 45 degree power-endurance finals routes. Word has it that these two are also a couple, which would make this the first double World Cup win from a couple!
The results were incredibly close in both the women's and the men's finals. In the men's particularly it could barely have been closer at the upper end, with single points and plus points separating competitors.
World Cup veteran Jakob Schubert of Austria took third place on countback ahead of France's Gautier Supper and was beaten by Stefano Ghisolfi of Italy by only one plus point. Domen Škofic was the only athlete who managed to pass the volume and reach the blue slopers on the final headwall. This was enough for him to take home his second World Cup Gold.
If the men's final had been exciting, women's final was even more so, the final three climbers in particular putting on an amazing show. Jain Kim of Korea, a veteran with 25 world cup wins, climbed beautifully, getting further than any of the climbers thus far, falling just before the final move.
Anak Verhoeven of Belgium, out next, climbed effortlessly, no move appeared to phase her and she clipped the chains still looking composed and in contol. This was the first top in the finals and Anak had remained unflustered throughout, even stopping a couple of times check her watch mid-climb. After coming fourth overall in the last two World Cup series, Anak looked set to take the win.
However, seventeen-year-old Janja Garnbret of Slovenia's lead shook things up. Janja, who came seventh overall last year after only entering three World Cups, is really taking the lead competition world by storm...on this occasion, very literally in a storm. Speeding though the first section, Janja was climbing a lot faster than any of the others had. As she neared the headwall, the wind and the rain picked up and Janja really had to battle the elements on the final headwall, her small frame looked like it might almost get blown off the wall. She topped with just under two minutes to spare, snatching her first World Cup Gold.
Next: Round 2 in Villars, Switzerland, July 15th-16th after two days rest for the althletes.
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) -Chamonix (FRA) 2016
MENs lead
Rank | Name | Nation | Qual' | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Domen Skofic | SLO | 34 8. | 45.5+ | 51 |
2 | Stefano Ghisolfi | ITA | 43+ 3. | 45.5+ | 48+ |
3 | Jakob Schubert | AUT | Top 1. | 45+ | 48 |
4 | Gautier Supper | FRA | 42 4. | 39+ | 48 |
5 | Romain Desgranges | FRA | Top 1. | 39 | 47 |
6 | Sebastian Halenke | GER | 34+ 5. | 45+ | 46+ |
7 | Sean McColl | CAN | 34+ 5. | 40 | 46+ |
8 | Francesco Vettorata | ITA | 31+ 10. | 39+ | 43+ |
9 | Keiichiro KORENAGA | JPN | 34+ 5. | 37+ | |
10 | Naoki SHIMATANI | JPN | 25+ 19. | 37+ | |
11 | Hanwool Kim | KOR | 20+ 40. | 37 | |
12 | Sean Bailey | USA | 31+ 10. | 33+ | |
13 | Masahiro HIGUCHI | JPN | 31+ 10. | 30+ | |
14 | Thomas JOANNES | FRA | 33+ 9. | 30+ | |
15 | Jihwan Park | KOR | 29 14. | 30+ | |
16 | Sascha Lehmann | SUI | 25+ 19. | 30+ | |
17 | Yuki HADA | JPN | 25+ 19. | 29+ | |
18 | Kokoro FUJII | JPN | 31+ 10. | 27+ | |
19 | Loïc Timmermans | BEL | 25+ 19. | 27+ | |
20 | Urban Primozic | SLO | 26+ 18. | 26+ |
WOMENs lead
Rank | Name | Nation | Qual' | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Janja Garnbret | SLO | 53 1. | 36+ | Top |
2 | Anak VERHOEVEN | BEL | 52+ 2. | 33+ | Top |
3 | Jain Kim | KOR | 47 3. | 35+ | 48+ |
4 | Magdalena Röck | AUT | 43 5. | 34+ | 43+ |
5 | Yuka Kobayashi | JPN | 28+ 9. | 30+ | 33+ |
6 | Mina Markovic | SLO | 24+ 16. | 30+ | 33+ |
7 | Anne-Sophie Koller | SUI | 32+ 7. | 30+ | 27+ |
8 | Charlotte Durif | FRA | 23+ 18. | 30+ | 21+ |
9 | Hannah Schubert | AUT | 24 17. | 30+ | |
10 | Mathilde Becerra | FRA | 45+ 4. | 30 | |
11 | Julia Chanourdie | FRA | 28+ 9. | 30 | |
12 | Christine Schranz | AUT | 28+ 9. | 27 | |
13 | Solène AMOROS | FRA | 23+ 18. | 21+ | |
14 | Hélène Janicot | FRA | 32 8. | 16+ | |
15 | Jessica Pilz | AUT | 23+ 18. | 16 | |
16 | Dinara Fakhritdinova | RUS | 27+ 14. | 16 | |
17 | Katharina Posch | AUT | 28+ 9. | 15+ | |
18 | Asja Gollo | ITA | 21+ 29. | 14+ | |
19 | Delaney Miller | USA | 28+ 9. | 14 | |
20 | Ievgeniia Kazbekova | UKR | 22+ 26. | 12+ | |
41 | Natalie Berry | GBR | 1 47. |