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Stonking 14m long Parallel Cracks At Danby.
© Franco Cookson, Feb 2013
Route: Osiris (HVS 5a)
Camera used: Fuji FinePix S7000
Date taken: 17th February 2013
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User Comments

Always wanted a trip up to Danby after seeing some of your new routes! Any suggestions what routes and what time of year to go up!?
coreybennett - 13/Jan/14
I take it from your logbook that you're looking at VS-E1? At Danby there is a bit to go at. Things may be a bit dusty and even dirty in places, but the rock is class. An abseil down some of the less often climbed routes can be useful.
SO, start off with valiant - it's a finely positioned corner crack VS/HVS, with a great niche at the top that can be thoroughly enjoyed. After that you have Roosevelt, Osiris and Isis. These are the original routes of the cliff, with traditional style crack climbing. All three are worth while, with Osiris being probably the best. There are other bits and bobs around at this grade, but that lot should more than suffice for a first taste of Danby. Let me know if you want any more info.
Franco Cookson - 13/Jan/14
Oh no, I just wasn't too bothered to put things onto my log book last year, I'm looking for things around E1-E3 .
coreybennett - 13/Jan/14
Also I have been looking at a new project for the best part of this year 'psycho syndicate' any advice?
coreybennett - 13/Jan/14
There's less in the E1-E3 range at Danby (there was nothing pre 2011). The Jungle Drum (E3 5c), Stalin (E2/3 5b), Chocolate Moose (E3 6b - font 6c) offer some interest, but they're by no means the best routes at the crag. Chocolate Moose could be a good warm up for Psycho though... There's actually an unclimbed crack, opened up since the recent rockfall, which I cleaned the mud away from (took a good few hours!) last year, which should offer the best E1 at the crag - might be HVS or E2, not sure - have a look!
In regard to Psycho... It's basically a high boulder problem that feels somewhere between font 7a and font 7b+, depending on how strong your fingers are. I blogged quite a lot about it last year, with beta in those blog posts. I ended up using a gaston mono I think, but shorter people use heels etc. Great route!
Franco Cookson - 14/Jan/14
Psycho can be climbed with a mono (small strong fingers) or via a left hand sidepull with a right foot step through onto an excellent edge - this allows you to reach the higher peg scar pockets and it is here that you might require a right heel hook for balance. Highball Font 7b.
Dave Warburton - 14/Jan/14
Sounds fine... I might take a look at that crack if you don't mind me stealing a climb from your prize crag?aha! But thanks for that, no gear placements I guess?
coreybennett - 14/Jan/14
Nah, knock yourself out, more the merrier! It might need another bit of a clean after the winter. There was quite a lot of earth above it, which may have been washed down. Won't take long though. If you're after good routes of E2/3, at unusual crags, then you should really get out to Smuggler's and Stoupe Brow!
Franco Cookson - 15/Jan/14
I've been wanting to get down there but I just can't :( I'm only 15 but very true! Shame you took all the first ascents up since you've been very busy! I'll have to find an old outcrop like this and clean everything up like you did!
coreybennett - 15/Jan/14
haha. You're doing better than I did if you're already looking at E3s at 15! Where abouts do you live? There will certainly be stuff to do wherever you are. I'll be back in the Moors in a couple of weeks, would be good to get out. Send me a message!
Franco Cookson - 15/Jan/14
Sure! I started climbing about a year and a half ago and its just been non stop! But I live in Redcar(it should be took off the map) not much near me! So when are you back in the moors exactly, February time? And I wish, your doing E7`s and stuff!
coreybennett - 15/Jan/14
But I'll happily come out!
coreybennett - 15/Jan/14
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added March 20 2013.
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