Orginally this was an aid route, and had two pegs and one wooden bong bong with a piece of tat. The first peg was just under the over hang with the second about midway.
Just about mid point there is a side pull, and the crux move involved torquing out on this in a lay back style followed by swinging the right foot up to try and hook the main pocket which is a really good hold. From this point there is a very thin crack to jam fingers in (very uncomfortable hence the name carbide finger) for left hand. Then reach up put hand in large pocket, and then remove the foot. The left hand is used to control the swing. Next move is to swing the Left foot into the crack ( where the wooden peg was that i removed) . At this point you are hanging upside down and facing out from the rock face. Crank up using the abs , and jam hand , I suggest heavy tapping of the hand. Once secure try and release the ankle jam, so that just left hanging on a left hand jam (you can hang on this all day) , Place a friend 4 as high into the crack as possible and clip in. Swing of this jam, and crank up so that you can grab the sharp holds on the next ledge. Once you get to this stage the rest of the climb just follows up the center line. The route was originally graded by me at 6c , and when submitted to Crags magazine it was down graded since at that time there were no 6C grades on sand. I think that it was in crags 28, I stupidly sent the complete sequence of photos to crags in negative format and never got them back. If any one has them I would love to have them back. The move sequence took 6 months solid to try and figure out. Last time i looked at the climb it appeared that a bit had fallen off about mid point in the roof. This climb is counter intuitive and the moves mean that you are in tension quite a lot. I would love to know how subsequent accents have been made. Around this time there were several ascents made that i know where never really recorded properly . When this was posted in Crags there were two other climbs recorded but for the life of me I cannot remember what they are.