This is my brother leading The Sloth on his first visit to the Roaches on a Leeds University climbing trip on a winter's day in 1970. I wasn't there (I was then at Cardiff University), but I'm putting it in as a historical record. John used only one runner - tape round the block at the back of the roof. He is being belayed by John Syrett, who had never climbed on real rock before (though a star at the Leeds wall), so this was Syrett's very first rock climb! John Syrett was John's main climbing partner in 1970-71

Yes, this was my first visit to the Roaches and the first climb I did there, a few minutes after getting off the coach from Leeds.
This did not seem like poor protection at the time: what could be better than a number 3 hawser-laid sling over a block?! Remember, cams had not been invented at this time. Nor had belay devices - note that John Syrett is using the classic waist belay and belay gloves. John was a very bold leader, but also a fantastically solid second; absolutely nothing casual about his belaying. Notice his attention and just the right amount of slack in the rope.
Note the socks inside the EBs, and the waist belts; no leg loops.

Some of climbings rich history. I like it a lot

John Syretts first rock route. I feel as though I've just been emailed the lost first draft of the Seven Pillars of Wisdom.

Brill. Thanks for posting this up, guys.

My god Gordon, I think that's me on Black and Tans! I'll have to look out my old photos and diary...

That would be truly fascinating.