The Meltdown on The Quarryman wall in north Wales' Dinorwig Slate Quarry was equipped by Johnny Dawes—who appears in this short film. But turning his attention away from the line in 1990, it became known as 'Johnny's great unfinished project'. It remained like that until James McHaffie's first ascent in 2012 to give the UK its 'technically hardest slab climb at 8c+/9a'. Six years later (May 2018), the visiting Spanish climber, Ignacio Mulero, repeated the route on his second trip to try it. In this film, his friend Talo Martin documented that visit and the successful outcome.
Me and some friends were in Serengeti the day before he did Meltdown. If only I had known who the guy sitting down and watching me punter off Windows of Perception on TR was, I might have clung on a bit harder and stopped dicking around!
First when he lassoed the next clip - cool I thought :-)
Then the bit where he pulled his foot up with his hand and then snatched to the next holds with both hands at the same time - had to rewind/replay a couple of times to confirm "did I just see that?"
Comments
Me and some friends were in Serengeti the day before he did Meltdown. If only I had known who the guy sitting down and watching me punter off Windows of Perception on TR was, I might have clung on a bit harder and stopped dicking around!
I'd like to think I inspired him to get on it...
Impressive bit of climbing and cool video only let down by the subtitling.
I especially liked two bits:
First when he lassoed the next clip - cool I thought :-)
Then the bit where he pulled his foot up with his hand and then snatched to the next holds with both hands at the same time - had to rewind/replay a couple of times to confirm "did I just see that?"
Amazing that he did this in Boreals
Why?