UKC

IFSC Boulder World Cup: Hachioji


11 May, 2017
Thought this was a really good comp. Great to see Alexy and Janja take the top spots. Though to be fair I don't think Alexy would have won had Tomoa not injured his fingers on P3. Every time Jakob Schubert came down off that problem he was looking at his fingertips with concern. Hope Tomoa's injury is not too bad. He certainly didn't look good on P4. It did make me wonder whether it's really worth putting tiny, injurious, crimps in these comps at all. After all it seems like there's less and less incentive to try to make indoor climbing like outdoor now why bother with small, unpleasant holds? Hope Janja continues with the bouldering events. She obviously wants to start training for the lead season. But she seems like the only person who can challenge Shauna at the moment. It was pretty interesting the popularity of the Japanese event with people queuing for entry from 4am! I can't imagine that happening here if we ever manage to host another bouldering world cup. It seems in certain countries climbing is a lot more popular than here (eg. Slovenia and Japan). Is that because they have better climbing than us or some other reason?
12 May, 2017
Certainly a good crowd, a good location and it seemed well set-up. Different style of problems this week and I wasn't really taken by them. Perhaps not overhanging enough? Shauna will have her work cut out to beat Janja. I know who my money's on. The boulder world cups at cliffhanger in Sheffield were really well attended and had a great atmosphere. Would love to see one return. Definitely looking forward to Edinburgh lead and speed. Interesting to note that Tokyo has over 100 climbing gyms. That'll be one reason for their strength.
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