It's interesting that after making the effort to reduce the time of finals by axing the 4+ rule they've now almost doubled it by running the men's and women's final separately.
4. Number of attempts to bonus holds (fewer is better)
So a climber A who achieved 3 tops in 7 attempts and 3 bonuses in 3 attempts (3t7 3b3) would beat a climber B who achieved 3 tops in 10 in attempts and 4 bonuses in 4 attempts (3t10 4b4). They got the same number of tops, but A took fewer attempts - there is no need to drop down to bonus holds at number of attempts to top were not tied.
This year the bonus hold has been renamed the 'zone' hold (which it was originally called anyway I believe, but don't quote me on that, and the order has been changed thus:1. Number of tops (more is better)
2. Number of zones (more is better)
3. Number of attempts to tops (fewer is better)
4. Number of attempts to zone holds (fewer is better) The same two climbers' scores would now be A - 3t3z 7 3, B - 3t4z 10 4, and this time climber B wins. They got the same number of tops, but B got more zone holds - there is no need to drop down to attempts as number of zones were not tied. NB if you don't know, the zone / bonus hold is single hold on each problem, somewhere half way up, marked as such.
Comments
It's interesting that after making the effort to reduce the time of finals by axing the 4+ rule they've now almost doubled it by running the men's and women's final separately.
But it did make it more predictable, which I assume was the objective.
Except it was shorter because too many women flashed their problems.
And it was longer because the clocks in Switzerland aren't what they're reputed to be!
:-)
Could someone explain what the first paragraph actually means to a dense person?
Cheers
1. Highest no. of top-outs wins.
2. If tied, highest no. of zones (a.k.a. bonuses) wins.
3. If tied, fewest attempts to achieve successful top-outs wins.
4. If tied, fewest attempts to achieve successful zones wins.
The order of nos. 2 & 3 above has been reversed since last year, so zone success is now more important than top-out attempts.
Previously the scores were ranked thus:
1. Number of tops (more is better)
2. Number of attempts to top (fewer is better)
3. Number of bonus holds (more is better)
4. Number of attempts to bonus holds (fewer is better)
So a climber A who achieved 3 tops in 7 attempts and 3 bonuses in 3 attempts (3t7 3b3) would beat a climber B who achieved 3 tops in 10 in attempts and 4 bonuses in 4 attempts (3t10 4b4). They got the same number of tops, but A took fewer attempts - there is no need to drop down to bonus holds at number of attempts to top were not tied.
This year the bonus hold has been renamed the 'zone' hold (which it was originally called anyway I believe, but don't quote me on that, and the order has been changed thus:1. Number of tops (more is better)
2. Number of zones (more is better)
3. Number of attempts to tops (fewer is better)
4. Number of attempts to zone holds (fewer is better) The same two climbers' scores would now be A - 3t3z 7 3, B - 3t4z 10 4, and this time climber B wins. They got the same number of tops, but B got more zone holds - there is no need to drop down to attempts as number of zones were not tied. NB if you don't know, the zone / bonus hold is single hold on each problem, somewhere half way up, marked as such.