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Hi UKCers!
I am looking for some bold but safe routes to try out to increase my trad leading confidence. Ideally they will be in the E1 to E3 range.
What I am after is a nice runout above bombproof gear without the chance of hitting the floor. I thought the collective wisdom of UKC can recommend me some good ones.
Thanks and happy climbing everyone!
I am looking for some bold but safe routes to try out to increase my trad leading confidence. Ideally they will be in the E1 to E3 range.
What I am after is a nice runout above bombproof gear without the chance of hitting the floor. I thought the collective wisdom of UKC can recommend me some good ones.
Thanks and happy climbing everyone!
In reply to Mike Highbury:
You might not hit the floor, but you could hit some other stuff. I'm not sure about 'safe'.
I propose Time for Tea.
jcm
You might not hit the floor, but you could hit some other stuff. I'm not sure about 'safe'.
I propose Time for Tea.
jcm
In reply to zmv:
these are the best kind of routes. Chee tor is good for this (42nd street is classic), but will have to wait til next summer. Perseus on high tor. Astra in the lakes possibly. On grit, maybe san melas, big greeny.
these are the best kind of routes. Chee tor is good for this (42nd street is classic), but will have to wait til next summer. Perseus on high tor. Astra in the lakes possibly. On grit, maybe san melas, big greeny.
In reply to Mike Highbury:
From what I remember from following a friend up last slip, there is a bolt low down you clip off a ledge right of the belay ledge then no more gear of merit until you exit the groove at the top. I recall evidence of a missing peg midway but I may be wrong.
I think you'd hit the ledge falling off this route, bold but unsafe prehaps!
From what I remember from following a friend up last slip, there is a bolt low down you clip off a ledge right of the belay ledge then no more gear of merit until you exit the groove at the top. I recall evidence of a missing peg midway but I may be wrong.
I think you'd hit the ledge falling off this route, bold but unsafe prehaps!
In reply to zmv:
You need to find steepish routes then any falls are relatively safe.
I'd agree with Chee Tor but it's unlikely to be in condition until next spring. Astra isn't a particularly safe route - the hard bit is but there's a lot of balancey 5b that isn't. The routes at Reecastle Crag would be a good start. Pembroke must have more than its fair share as would Gogarth.
You need to find steepish routes then any falls are relatively safe.
I'd agree with Chee Tor but it's unlikely to be in condition until next spring. Astra isn't a particularly safe route - the hard bit is but there's a lot of balancey 5b that isn't. The routes at Reecastle Crag would be a good start. Pembroke must have more than its fair share as would Gogarth.
In reply to The Pylon King:
Kitten Claws? It's said to be fairly well protected though I wasn't so sure but a long way to go for one move on what is essentially a bit of a path.
> North Pembroke
Kitten Claws? It's said to be fairly well protected though I wasn't so sure but a long way to go for one move on what is essentially a bit of a path.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
How about Fish Supper at Swanage? You can fall 20m off that and still walk away.
From the logbook: 'I lead P1, Mike P fell length of top pitch after pulling off loose hold on exit.'
> You can always place less of it.
> jcm
How about Fish Supper at Swanage? You can fall 20m off that and still walk away.
From the logbook: 'I lead P1, Mike P fell length of top pitch after pulling off loose hold on exit.'
Post edited at 09:55
In reply to zmv:
Topaz, E2, Roaches (not really that much of a run-out, but interesting enough).
Solid Geometry, E1, Hen cloud (feels a bit bold, but isn't really).
Waterloo Sunset, E3, Gardoms (this one is a bit of a run-out, above good gear).
Topaz, E2, Roaches (not really that much of a run-out, but interesting enough).
Solid Geometry, E1, Hen cloud (feels a bit bold, but isn't really).
Waterloo Sunset, E3, Gardoms (this one is a bit of a run-out, above good gear).
In reply to zmv:
Dinas Mot Some of the rotes on the Nose of Dinas Mot might suit. Diagonal and West Rib (HVS but good for your head), Super Direct.
Dinas Mot Some of the rotes on the Nose of Dinas Mot might suit. Diagonal and West Rib (HVS but good for your head), Super Direct.
In reply to zmv:
How about Living at Speed (E1) on Stanage and Overhanging Groove at Almscliff (only HVS but a corker).
How about Living at Speed (E1) on Stanage and Overhanging Groove at Almscliff (only HVS but a corker).
In reply to Tom Last:
True, but it shouldn't happen if he wants E1 -3 and they're HVS. (Having said that, I've just done my ankle in falling off a route that was well within my range!)
True, but it shouldn't happen if he wants E1 -3 and they're HVS. (Having said that, I've just done my ankle in falling off a route that was well within my range!)
In reply to zmv:
Silly Arete! Not sure the runout qualifies as 'nice' but it is above bomber gear. Maybe save this one for the end of the programme though as it is a bit goey.
The best route I've ever climbed though, its mindblowing.
Silly Arete! Not sure the runout qualifies as 'nice' but it is above bomber gear. Maybe save this one for the end of the programme though as it is a bit goey.
The best route I've ever climbed though, its mindblowing.
1
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Hmmmm. Not sure I'd fancy a quick a high friction dismount and ankle-snapping inversion from the top of this even assuming by belayer was awake enough to prevent ground impact.
There's a video on YouTube somewhere suggesting that you can screw up the top of Elegy and get away with it but I wouldn't recommend that either.
Off the top of my head, how about Appaloosa Sunset (3rd Cloud), Desolation Row (Bosigran), Terrapin (Baggy), Black Ice (LQP, Torbay), Rowan Tree Slabs or Javelin Blade (Idwal), Superdirect or Zeta (Dinas Mot), Pull My Daisy (Rainbow Slab, as long as you avoid the spike!). I haven't done it but isn't Adjudicator Wall pretty safe but bold unless you are superhumanly strong?
> (In reply to zmv)
>
> On grit, maybe san melas
>
> On grit, maybe san melas
Hmmmm. Not sure I'd fancy a quick a high friction dismount and ankle-snapping inversion from the top of this even assuming by belayer was awake enough to prevent ground impact.
There's a video on YouTube somewhere suggesting that you can screw up the top of Elegy and get away with it but I wouldn't recommend that either.
Off the top of my head, how about Appaloosa Sunset (3rd Cloud), Desolation Row (Bosigran), Terrapin (Baggy), Black Ice (LQP, Torbay), Rowan Tree Slabs or Javelin Blade (Idwal), Superdirect or Zeta (Dinas Mot), Pull My Daisy (Rainbow Slab, as long as you avoid the spike!). I haven't done it but isn't Adjudicator Wall pretty safe but bold unless you are superhumanly strong?
In reply to Dave Garnett: > Hmmmm. Not sure I'd fancy a quick a high friction dismount and ankle-snapping inversion from the top of this even assuming by belayer was awake enough to prevent ground impact.
The belayer can stand on the lump on the left and, in the event of a fall, will be yanked off saving the leader's ankles and a very boring hobble back down. That's what happened to me when someone fell off but then I am a bit small.
The belayer can stand on the lump on the left and, in the event of a fall, will be yanked off saving the leader's ankles and a very boring hobble back down. That's what happened to me when someone fell off but then I am a bit small.
In reply to Mike Highbury:
Well, quite. Not what I'd call safe but then I have an over-active imagination which has always been a considerable hindrance in this regard.
Well, quite. Not what I'd call safe but then I have an over-active imagination which has always been a considerable hindrance in this regard.
In reply to zmv:
A few more: Gnat Attack E1 Bus Sop Quarry (safe as long as you don't fall off on the easy stuff before the bolt at 12m - the first gear)
Acid Rain E1 Shakemantle Quarry (again run out start, but not too hard).
Four Steps to Heaven E2 and Moving Target E3 at Fairy Cave Quarry.
Hope you like slabs!
A few more: Gnat Attack E1 Bus Sop Quarry (safe as long as you don't fall off on the easy stuff before the bolt at 12m - the first gear)
Acid Rain E1 Shakemantle Quarry (again run out start, but not too hard).
Four Steps to Heaven E2 and Moving Target E3 at Fairy Cave Quarry.
Hope you like slabs!
In reply to The Ivanator:
Except that there are a couple of decent bits of gear before the first bolt, if you look out for them.
> Gnat Attack E1 Bus Sop Quarry (safe as long as you don't fall off on the easy stuff before the bolt at 12m - the first gear)
Except that there are a couple of decent bits of gear before the first bolt, if you look out for them.
In reply to Mike Highbury:
Kitten Claws doesn't fit the bill at all, I wouldn't want to fall anywhere on the first half of the route, and by the second half its all over.
On Gower I could recommend Lazy Sunday Afternoon (E2 5b, safe as houses move out over a roof), Power Trap (E3 5c, tricky move to get out of a steep groove) and Talons (E2 6a - depends on much you trust the threads. They held me on a massive whipper!).
Elsewhere I think Time for Tea is one of the better grit recommendations. In North Wales I think Resurrection (original finish) fits the bill, but at E4 it might be a bit too tricky.
Kitten Claws doesn't fit the bill at all, I wouldn't want to fall anywhere on the first half of the route, and by the second half its all over.
On Gower I could recommend Lazy Sunday Afternoon (E2 5b, safe as houses move out over a roof), Power Trap (E3 5c, tricky move to get out of a steep groove) and Talons (E2 6a - depends on much you trust the threads. They held me on a massive whipper!).
Elsewhere I think Time for Tea is one of the better grit recommendations. In North Wales I think Resurrection (original finish) fits the bill, but at E4 it might be a bit too tricky.
Telli - gift at E3 and untimately safe.
Jetrunner is my only E4 and probably isn't. Spend a long time placing and equalising as many runners as poss beneath crux.
Four Steps to Heaven was terrifying. Not sure I would consider falling off crux.
Aphasia didn't feel particular safe until you got into the cracky bit.
Jetrunner is my only E4 and probably isn't. Spend a long time placing and equalising as many runners as poss beneath crux.
Four Steps to Heaven was terrifying. Not sure I would consider falling off crux.
Aphasia didn't feel particular safe until you got into the cracky bit.
In reply to Owen W-G:
I've held a leader fall from well above gear on 4 Steps - a fairly long grazing slide, but no long term damage done, gear (though small) held. No chance of decking from the crux if you are assiduous with placing gear at every opportunity.
I've held a leader fall from well above gear on 4 Steps - a fairly long grazing slide, but no long term damage done, gear (though small) held. No chance of decking from the crux if you are assiduous with placing gear at every opportunity.
In reply to Michael Hood:
No, you can absolutely lace Left Wall - gear above your head nearly all the way (if you want it and carry enough).
No, you can absolutely lace Left Wall - gear above your head nearly all the way (if you want it and carry enough).
In reply to zmv:
You might be better simply putting less gear in, it's less stressful for one thing. Climb routes that *could* be protected every couple of metres but don't place gear until your last runner is well below your feet.
You might be better simply putting less gear in, it's less stressful for one thing. Climb routes that *could* be protected every couple of metres but don't place gear until your last runner is well below your feet.
In reply to Owen W-G: > Telli - gift at E3 and untimately safe.
Not bold enough for this project. Remarkably I haven't done the others that you offer.
Not bold enough for this project. Remarkably I haven't done the others that you offer.
In reply to zmv:
Is Astra bold? I did it as my first E2 and I'm renowned throughout the land as the most lily-livered wuss in the world.
Is Astra bold? I did it as my first E2 and I'm renowned throughout the land as the most lily-livered wuss in the world.
In reply to zmv:
Some grit ones I can think of ( and I haven't read through the thread so there may be repeats, sorry)
Three pebble slab
Browns eliminate
The gully joke (not sure if you will stay off the floor)
Time for tea
Tea for two
That thing next to suspense with the tiptoe traverse at lawrencefield
The strangler E4 but won't cause any trouble for someone climbing E1-E3
Silica at stanage (the fall might chafe a little).
Some grit ones I can think of ( and I haven't read through the thread so there may be repeats, sorry)
Three pebble slab
Browns eliminate
The gully joke (not sure if you will stay off the floor)
Time for tea
Tea for two
That thing next to suspense with the tiptoe traverse at lawrencefield
The strangler E4 but won't cause any trouble for someone climbing E1-E3
Silica at stanage (the fall might chafe a little).
Post edited at 17:09
In reply to spidermonkey09:
Silly arete: There's a pretty nasty run out off the tree - a near factor 2 fall is possible if you fluff the tricky moves on the lower arete
Silly arete: There's a pretty nasty run out off the tree - a near factor 2 fall is possible if you fluff the tricky moves on the lower arete
In reply to Dave Garnett:
I know what you mean.
Rather like Kitten Claws, a different kind of "bold but ultimately safe" i.e. loads of gear, but it's all shit...surely something will hold?
> Hmmmm. Not sure I'd fancy a quick a high friction dismount and ankle-snapping inversion from the top of this even assuming by belayer was awake enough to prevent ground impact.
I know what you mean.
> Desolation Row (Bosigran)
Rather like Kitten Claws, a different kind of "bold but ultimately safe" i.e. loads of gear, but it's all shit...surely something will hold?
In reply to Coel Hellier:
Good one. These routes are hard to come by on grit.
Doesn't this one have a big ledge to hit?
This one's right on the borderline - I'm not convinced falling off the top bit, which isn't easy and can be green, is OK. You always go further than you think, which could be the ground in this case.
> Topaz, E2, Roaches (not really that much of a run-out, but interesting enough).
Good one. These routes are hard to come by on grit.
> Solid Geometry, E1, Hen cloud (feels a bit bold, but isn't really).
Doesn't this one have a big ledge to hit?
> Waterloo Sunset, E3, Gardoms (this one is a bit of a run-out, above good gear).
This one's right on the borderline - I'm not convinced falling off the top bit, which isn't easy and can be green, is OK. You always go further than you think, which could be the ground in this case.
In reply to Coel Hellier:
Massambula is safe as long as the very top isn't wet (although I know someone who took the ride from even here and didn't deck)
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> [...]
>
> Except that there are a couple of decent bits of gear before the first bolt, if you look out for them.
>
> [...]
>
> Except that there are a couple of decent bits of gear before the first bolt, if you look out for them.
Massambula is safe as long as the very top isn't wet (although I know someone who took the ride from even here and didn't deck)
In reply to Jon Stewart:
San Melas may require a swift belayer I was belaying a friend who popped off near the top. i quickly jumped backwards off the ledge I was standing on and his feet brushed the ground.
San Melas may require a swift belayer I was belaying a friend who popped off near the top. i quickly jumped backwards off the ledge I was standing on and his feet brushed the ground.
1
In reply to Duncan Bourne:
This is the problem with grit. Like Waterloo Sunset, do a couple of moves above your bomber gear and hey presto you're about to deck out.
> San Melas may require a swift belayer I was belaying a friend who popped off near the top. i quickly jumped backwards off the ledge I was standing on and his feet brushed the ground.
This is the problem with grit. Like Waterloo Sunset, do a couple of moves above your bomber gear and hey presto you're about to deck out.
In reply to Mark Kemball:
What did I do wrong then? I fell off failing to clip a Rock 2 just before the flaky leftwards traverse at the top and fell a very long way - caught by my last gear, a Rock 3 placed some 4m below. I didn't spot any gear between, or perhaps I just couldn't stop to place it - it is the crux section (unless you take the direct finish I believe).
From conversations and other reports I think I'm far from the only one to suffer this fate.
From my experience, I think Left Wall probably does fit the OP's criteria, though it could do with being a bit steeper (after you've fallen off I mean). I hit something and hurt my ankle a little, though I was able to finish the route, with a rest this time at the previous high point - so not a clean ascent. Mind you, Left Wall's got to be worth doing, whatever your reason.
By the way, this was some 15 years ago, and I remember every detail. I try not to fall too often.
Martin
> No, you can absolutely lace Left Wall - gear above your head nearly all the way (if you want it and carry enough).
What did I do wrong then? I fell off failing to clip a Rock 2 just before the flaky leftwards traverse at the top and fell a very long way - caught by my last gear, a Rock 3 placed some 4m below. I didn't spot any gear between, or perhaps I just couldn't stop to place it - it is the crux section (unless you take the direct finish I believe).
From conversations and other reports I think I'm far from the only one to suffer this fate.
From my experience, I think Left Wall probably does fit the OP's criteria, though it could do with being a bit steeper (after you've fallen off I mean). I hit something and hurt my ankle a little, though I was able to finish the route, with a rest this time at the previous high point - so not a clean ascent. Mind you, Left Wall's got to be worth doing, whatever your reason.
By the way, this was some 15 years ago, and I remember every detail. I try not to fall too often.
Martin
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Yeah, I watched someone do that once. Excellent entertainment.
People do fall quite long distances off Left Wall. You just need to go for it and not stop to put too much gear in, and it qualifies just fine.
jcm
> Massambula is safe as long as the very top isn't wet (although I know someone who took the ride from even here and didn't deck)
Yeah, I watched someone do that once. Excellent entertainment.
People do fall quite long distances off Left Wall. You just need to go for it and not stop to put too much gear in, and it qualifies just fine.
jcm
In reply to Martin Hore:
You can place small nuts every couple of feet up the crack. I had abput 5 bits in between the ledge and the traverse!
You can place small nuts every couple of feet up the crack. I had abput 5 bits in between the ledge and the traverse!
In reply to Duncan Bourne:
Plenty of long run outs, not sure any of them can be considered 'safe'!
> sounds like you want to visit Etive slabs, plenty of long run outs there
Plenty of long run outs, not sure any of them can be considered 'safe'!
In reply to Martin Hore:
Well, it's even longer since I led Left Wall (E2 5c), 79! But I was fairly fit at the time, and as I remember it, you could get small wires all the way up the thin crack. I've followed it a couple of times since, last time in '03, and I think there was plenty of gear there.
Well, it's even longer since I led Left Wall (E2 5c), 79! But I was fairly fit at the time, and as I remember it, you could get small wires all the way up the thin crack. I've followed it a couple of times since, last time in '03, and I think there was plenty of gear there.
In reply to Rory Shaw:
Good point, had forgotten about that move. Doubt its a F2 though, remember getting gear in the flake-crack, but definitely nice!
Good point, had forgotten about that move. Doubt its a F2 though, remember getting gear in the flake-crack, but definitely nice!
In reply to deacondeacon:
Wouldn't these be normally classed as "bold, but safe at the crux with dangerous runout above".
I think Pearls at Chatsworth fits the bill. Hard smear and top out above gear. Felt a bit scary, but also safe
Cake
> Three pebble slab
> Browns eliminate
Wouldn't these be normally classed as "bold, but safe at the crux with dangerous runout above".
I think Pearls at Chatsworth fits the bill. Hard smear and top out above gear. Felt a bit scary, but also safe
Cake
In reply to zmv:
Grit doesn't really lend itself to "bold but safe" I'd have thought, but since there have already been some Gritstone suggestions I'll add a couple more that I've seconded my (somewhat braver than me) partner up:
"Outsider" at Rivelin
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=9716
"Cyclops Eye" at Cocking Tor
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=35313
Both come in at E2 (Outsider is low in the grade), and both are a tad run-out at the top but with an alert belayer and a following wind you should just about avoid a Desmond if you fluff it.
Grit doesn't really lend itself to "bold but safe" I'd have thought, but since there have already been some Gritstone suggestions I'll add a couple more that I've seconded my (somewhat braver than me) partner up:
"Outsider" at Rivelin
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=9716
"Cyclops Eye" at Cocking Tor
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=35313
Both come in at E2 (Outsider is low in the grade), and both are a tad run-out at the top but with an alert belayer and a following wind you should just about avoid a Desmond if you fluff it.
In reply to deepsoup: > Grit doesn't really lend itself to "bold but safe" I'd have thought,
Excuse me but I think that it does!
Excuse me but I think that it does!
In reply to deepsoup:
I can report that if you slap for the top on outsider you won't deck. even with a light belayer.
I can report that if you slap for the top on outsider you won't deck. even with a light belayer.
In reply to alasdair19:
Good to know, but rather you than me matey!
Good to know, but rather you than me matey!
In reply to deepsoup:
Actually if we're going for 'bold but probably safe' on gritstone then The Sentinel at Burbage is an obvious choice. I wouldn't care to test it myself - the gear you're falling on to doesn't really inspire me - but people do. And indeed Flying Buttress DIrect.
jcm
Actually if we're going for 'bold but probably safe' on gritstone then The Sentinel at Burbage is an obvious choice. I wouldn't care to test it myself - the gear you're falling on to doesn't really inspire me - but people do. And indeed Flying Buttress DIrect.
jcm
In reply to Rob Parsons:
You can fall off Brown's Eliminate at the very end of the crux sequence and miss the floor. Just. I've done it. Take a good belayer though!
> I wouldn't want to go falling off that ...
You can fall off Brown's Eliminate at the very end of the crux sequence and miss the floor. Just. I've done it. Take a good belayer though!
In reply to spidermonkey09:
yeh if you climb up and put that runner in, then step back down to the branch then go up the arete it makes it a bit more amenable... still would be unpleasant to take the lob
yeh if you climb up and put that runner in, then step back down to the branch then go up the arete it makes it a bit more amenable... still would be unpleasant to take the lob
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I was belaying someone (who used to be connected with this site!) when he slumped on to the cam in the top break on The Sentinel. It held, but it was an ethically-sensitive gear placement because when he tried to pull up on the cam it decided it didn't approve of such shenanigans and popped out. The wire in the vertical crack below ripped as well, and the only thing that held was a dodgy-looking cam on the left in the first break, which meant he only scraped the ground on rope stretch. I think I came off worse - was hobbling for the rest of the day from being lifted about five feet and crunched into the rock.
Richard
I was belaying someone (who used to be connected with this site!) when he slumped on to the cam in the top break on The Sentinel. It held, but it was an ethically-sensitive gear placement because when he tried to pull up on the cam it decided it didn't approve of such shenanigans and popped out. The wire in the vertical crack below ripped as well, and the only thing that held was a dodgy-looking cam on the left in the first break, which meant he only scraped the ground on rope stretch. I think I came off worse - was hobbling for the rest of the day from being lifted about five feet and crunched into the rock.
Richard
In reply to Al Evans:
Fantastic route. I can't remember much of a run-out though, just a pokey (not safe) start to P2 where it's hard to get gear for the first few meters above the ledge?
Perhaps Assassin counts too? The crux pitch has decent spaced gear while the climbing is reasonable, to a good spike below the crux. On the crux you can get multiple small wires in - I just got first ones in and then ran it out to the good holds above the crux - certainly felt bold but safe, although it can be stacked with micro-gear for those with the hanging-on power and determination to do so
Over at Rhoscolyn, although Centrefold has a reputation for being well-protected, I thought the crux was a way above and to the side of decent gear. A really bollox little wire can be fiddled into the holds on the crux (yeah, great) but I'd say it was bold but safe crux - and one of the best E3s around.
> North West Passage on Castell Hellen.
Fantastic route. I can't remember much of a run-out though, just a pokey (not safe) start to P2 where it's hard to get gear for the first few meters above the ledge?
Perhaps Assassin counts too? The crux pitch has decent spaced gear while the climbing is reasonable, to a good spike below the crux. On the crux you can get multiple small wires in - I just got first ones in and then ran it out to the good holds above the crux - certainly felt bold but safe, although it can be stacked with micro-gear for those with the hanging-on power and determination to do so
Over at Rhoscolyn, although Centrefold has a reputation for being well-protected, I thought the crux was a way above and to the side of decent gear. A really bollox little wire can be fiddled into the holds on the crux (yeah, great) but I'd say it was bold but safe crux - and one of the best E3s around.
In reply to chris fox:
A fall off the end of the Hawkwing traverse would be worth watching! Could be fine though...
A fall off the end of the Hawkwing traverse would be worth watching! Could be fine though...
In reply to zmv:
Them in Avon E3
Pegs progress E2/3 in Meadfoot (although people have hurt themselves on this I think)
Dreadnought E3 at berry head, maybe not that bold.
Perfect example perhaps is nose decay at screda but its E4.
Or most S0 or S1 DWS
Them in Avon E3
Pegs progress E2/3 in Meadfoot (although people have hurt themselves on this I think)
Dreadnought E3 at berry head, maybe not that bold.
Perfect example perhaps is nose decay at screda but its E4.
Or most S0 or S1 DWS
Post edited at 18:37
In reply to zmv:
my suggestion is better late than never....
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=58455
my suggestion is better late than never....
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=58455
In reply to zmv:
Safety Net (E1 5b) - Roaches Skyline. not particularly run-out but good climbing and bomber gear.
Topaz (E2 5b) - Roaches Skyline. Well protected crux with a reasonably safe fall-out zone above.
Smear Test (E3 6a) - Roaches Lower Tier. Crux Traverse with bomber gear and safe fall zone.
Walleroo (E2 5c) - Roaches Upper Tier. Fingery pull over a roof with good gear.
Traveller In Time (E3 5c) - Ramshaw. With a size 5 cam.
Teli (E3 6a) - Stanage Plantation
Safety Net (E1 5b) - Roaches Skyline. not particularly run-out but good climbing and bomber gear.
Topaz (E2 5b) - Roaches Skyline. Well protected crux with a reasonably safe fall-out zone above.
Smear Test (E3 6a) - Roaches Lower Tier. Crux Traverse with bomber gear and safe fall zone.
Walleroo (E2 5c) - Roaches Upper Tier. Fingery pull over a roof with good gear.
Traveller In Time (E3 5c) - Ramshaw. With a size 5 cam.
Teli (E3 6a) - Stanage Plantation
In reply to zmv:
The Hypocrite - Barcud - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=26087 Underrated route with great climbing though a bit eliminate. If you follow what I think is the "proper way" it's hard 6a above your gear. Ace route.
Heavy Duty - New Mills Torrs - Has a pumpy section then a run out start.
Resurrection - the top is runout but very safe, be careful on the start though...
Rhinoceros - Haytor - the 2nd crux is really you must commit or you will fall off. 30ish metres in the air with good gear below you feet.
Pleasure Dome (Stennis ford)
The Hypocrite - Barcud - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=26087 Underrated route with great climbing though a bit eliminate. If you follow what I think is the "proper way" it's hard 6a above your gear. Ace route.
Heavy Duty - New Mills Torrs - Has a pumpy section then a run out start.
Resurrection - the top is runout but very safe, be careful on the start though...
Rhinoceros - Haytor - the 2nd crux is really you must commit or you will fall off. 30ish metres in the air with good gear below you feet.
Pleasure Dome (Stennis ford)
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Assassin - I agree with this. If you hang around for a bit before the crux (reversing if need be) you can fiddle higher microwires/ small wires in which are fairly good. The crux is protected by a few pieces.
Assassin - I agree with this. If you hang around for a bit before the crux (reversing if need be) you can fiddle higher microwires/ small wires in which are fairly good. The crux is protected by a few pieces.
In reply to James Oswald:
Brilliant climbing on one of the most beautiful rock faces in the country IMO, but I thought the eliminateness does stop this one being a classic. The gear's at your feet for the really hard move, so not really a run-out as such. If only Sinecure and the crack on the right were further away it would be one of the best routes ever.
> The Hypocrite - Barcud - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=26087 Underrated route with great climbing though a bit eliminate. If you follow what I think is the "proper way" it's hard 6a above your gear. Ace route.
Brilliant climbing on one of the most beautiful rock faces in the country IMO, but I thought the eliminateness does stop this one being a classic. The gear's at your feet for the really hard move, so not really a run-out as such. If only Sinecure and the crack on the right were further away it would be one of the best routes ever.
In reply to James Oswald:
I can't comment on the route, but this is rather odd. Come on James, how can you have a pumpy section (or indeed any section at all) and then a run out (or well protected) start? I suppose that's the kind of thing one should expect from a "doctor" of the social sciences...
> Heavy Duty - New Mills Torrs - Has a pumpy section then a run out start.
I can't comment on the route, but this is rather odd. Come on James, how can you have a pumpy section (or indeed any section at all) and then a run out (or well protected) start? I suppose that's the kind of thing one should expect from a "doctor" of the social sciences...
In reply to Jon Stewart:
"How can you have a pumpy section (or indeed any section at all) and then a run out (or well protected) start? "
Ooops, pumpy start then runout top section...
"The gear's at your feet for the really hard move"
The gear is just below your feet. I hope you had an enjoyable, pedantic weekend.
"How can you have a pumpy section (or indeed any section at all) and then a run out (or well protected) start? "
Ooops, pumpy start then runout top section...
"The gear's at your feet for the really hard move"
The gear is just below your feet. I hope you had an enjoyable, pedantic weekend.
In reply to James Oswald:
James, the OP asked for runout E1 with bomber gear, Hawking has bomber gear and the traverse is run out.
James, the OP asked for runout E1 with bomber gear, Hawking has bomber gear and the traverse is run out.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
It would be a decent pendulum !
I've seen a few swings off the end of the Swan's traverse and they were big !
> A fall off the end of the Hawkwing traverse would be worth watching! Could be fine though...
It would be a decent pendulum !
I've seen a few swings off the end of the Swan's traverse and they were big !
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