Climb Magazine - the April issue Preview

10th March, 2008

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Check out what's coming up in the April issue of Climb Magazine. You can subscribe online at www.climbmagazine.com or pick up a copy at your newsagents or at your local climbing shop.

8 pages dedicated to the exclusive James Pearson feature together with some fantastic photographs including the front cover shot.
Andy Earl's Stomping Ground Northumberland.
All the Brown/Whillans routes on Staffordshire gritstone in a day? – Andi Turner takes on the challenge.
Technique Series: Jams - Steve McClure and Dave Binney talk you through the pain.
Plus Bishton's Bouldering World.

James Pearson Article - The Groove E10 7b

James Pearson on the Cratcliffe Groove © David Simmonite
© Climb

David Simmonite writes: On a beautiful snowy winter's day and in perfect conditions James Pearson calmly succeeded on one of the last great problems on gritstone, The Groove at Cratcliffe in Derbyshire. This fantastic feature had been tried by many leading climbers over the years with most declaring it impossible or one for the next generation.

Weighing in at a mighty E10 7b this highly technical and bold route became something of a long term project for James, spending more time on this route than any other he had tried and he's already climbed two E10's on grit. It is perhaps one of the most significant routes ever climbed on grit and a step forward on what is possible. One handed slaps, tiny pebble pulling, a dyno with a probable ground fall and slopers are just part of what's expected to succeed. The ascent was filmed by the Hot Aches crew for a future film.

I was lucky to witness perhaps one of the smoothest ascents of a hard route I've have ever seen and climbed in such a relaxed manner that belied its difficulties. In fact when he mentioned 7b I couldn't help but think that it he made it look a lot easier. So when I abseiled down the route I was shocked by what I saw – or what I didn't see – as there is a distinct lack of holds. I just couldn't pull on let alone do any moves. After years of gritstone experience I had a fair idea of what was feasible and frankly I was shocked at the severity of the crux moves and in such a dangerous position to boot. So hats off to James on completing one of the most important ascents to date and with it, a continuation and belief of what's possible.

We will be giving away a free poster in the May issue of his amazing route (this month's front cover shot) so look out for Climb #39.

Purchase the April issue to read the full article

Andy Earl – Stomping Grounds Northumberland Sandstone

And Earl writes: I was one of the luckiest kids I know: I had a great relationship with my dad and that has continued throughout my life as a climbing partner, father and now business partner. As a kid I had it easy once I started climbing lots. I would just go out with my dad and his mates on a Saturday. They were a lively squad, in true northern style, treating me just as an equal. I've climbed with them since I was about 10 years old. In that squad were some colourful characters particularly the Smith brothers, Bob and Tommy, who made my education in life all the more full.

That day the Saturday team went to Callerhues. This is quite a powerful crack for the grade involving some jamming with poor footholds. My dad, the nice chap that he is, suggested it would be a good first lead and he pre-placed the gear so that I could just get the feel of the sharp end. I trusted my dad's word that it would be fine. However, he overlooked a couple of major factors: one, that I could not jam and two, the protection is not that great. So I set off at a pace through the bottom section, then I reached the rounded crack and started to layback which resulted in me taking a stylish fall only to strip the majority of my dad's pre-placed gear. Ever since I have placed my own gear and chosen my own route. Maybe my dad taught me a big lesson that day.

Purchase the April issue to read the full article climb stomping logo

Gear Preview

Gear logo Tom Richardson writes: It's that time of year, when the new spring growth begins to form on our hedgerows and birds can again be heard singing in the trees. That time of year when people's thoughts turn to that one thing, that universal four letter word, that undoubtedly holds the world together. Yes, you've guessed it; I'm talking about rock and the urge to climb the stuff.

This month I am addressing the subject of a beginner's rock rack.

Nowadays there are at least two sorts of beginners. Firstly and perhaps traditionally, there are those who may have been taken up an easy route or two by friends, liked it, and would like to develop in the sport. Then there are others who may have been climbing for a long time exclusively on indoor walls and in fact climb to a pretty high standard but have, as yet, never ventured out onto natural rock or placed protection.

Purchase the April issue to read the full article

COMPETITION

WIN - The new PETZL BUG

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