UKC

Climb Magazine July 2009 Preview

© Climb magazine
climb logo

Check out wht's coming up in the July issue of Climb Magazine. Climb is available to purchase from all WHS stores and other major newsagents, specialist outdoor retailers, as well as now being available in Tescos. You can subscribe online at www.climbmagazine.com or pick up a copy at your newsagents or at your local climbing shop. We've also got a digital teaser of the magazine this month at www.climbmagazine.com


climb stomping logo

Pete Robins - Dinorwig Slate

photo
Pete Robbins

Brought up on the gritstone edges Pete Robins is best known for his stylish ground up repeats such as The Promise, originally given E10. But for the last decade he's lived in North Wales making waves at Gogarth, in the Pass but most particularly the dramatic slate quarries that rise up above Llanberis. Slate is home to some of the UK's purest uncompromising lines. It demands a unique style of climbing rewarding those blessed with the gift of perfect technique. Not one lacking in that department Pete has repeated many of slate's hardest routes such as The Quarryman (E8) and The Medium (E7 7a), before going on to add flagship routes of his own such as The New Slatesman (F8b). Co-author of the new guidebook, which should be out this year, here he discusses his favourite slate adventures.


Training For Malham by Steve McClure

photo
Jordan Buys by Alastair Lee
In this training series top climber Steve McClure looks at ways to train for specific crags, or types of crags. This month he struts his funky stuff on the catwalk at Malham. When I first visited Malham I hadn't done any really hard sport routes, certainly not anything around the F8a mark. We arrived on the Friday afternoon of a Bank-holiday and wandered up for a look. I was struck by the featured nature of the rock, there appeared to be holds all over the place, everything looked easy, and the routes weren't even very overhanging, or even very long! The classic Raindogs (F8a), looked like it was covered in jugs and I wandered back to the campsite with a confident glow expecting that next day I'd come back and blitz the place, ticking a load of hard routes well above my station. How wrong could I have been! By the second bolt of Raindogs I was completely destroyed, it ended up taking me longer to climb this route than any other at that grade, six days over four years. I dropped my level dramatically but things didn't get much easier with even F7as proving an immense tussle. I left, destroyed, and declared the place wasn't for me and that I wouldn't be back in a hurry!



Get on the Sharp End

photo
Neil Gresham by Ian Parnell

I wouldn't admit this to just anyone, but when I was at school, which was a very long time ago, I won a prize. I can't remember exactly what it was for, probably for being the only person who wasn't caught smoking or having sex in the bike sheds. Anyway, the point is that I won a book token and with it I bought the latest state of the art guidebook to climbing in Scotland: Scottish Climbs, A Mountaineers Pictorial Guide to Climbing in Scotland, Volume 1 1971, by the great Hamish MacInnes.


I've still got it. As with all new guides it was a controversial book. It covered both summer rock routes and winter snow and ice climbs. All routes fell between the grade Easy and Very Severe and some had the added warning title of 'Serious'. If you could just about get up a Lake District VS rock route, the open ended nature of the Scottish VS grade could get you (or rather got me) into some quite tricky situations!


One winter route in the guide that was at the top of the classification was Point Five Gully on Ben Nevis; it was Very Severe and 'Serious'. The first ascent of this classic line was done by four people (including the legendary Ian Clough) over a period of five or six days in January 1959, by cutting steps and most importantly not falling off. Today it is graded V,5 which puts it about two thirds of the way up the grading system and it is described as an excellent introduction to Grade V classics - it's not uncommon to have several ropes of climbers stretching from
top to bottom.


FREE Mountain INFO downloads at Climb Magazine

Mountain Info

Mountain INFO is now exclusively available on-line via the Climb Magazine website FREE!! This internationally acclaimed resource has been added to our extensive online 'Archives' as a fully downloadable pdf. You will be able to view and print off Mountain INFO at the touch of a button, 24/7 via the Climb website at www.climbmagazine.com

For over 35 years Mountain INFO has been the essential place to research Alpinism, big walls and mountaineering expeditions throughout the world. An intrinsic part of Climb Magazine, Mountain INFO is edited by the well known and respected mountaineer, Lindsay Griffin, who uses his worldwide contacts, built up over many years - to bring first-class information and quality images to you. Now, to enable you to access this massive resource more easily we are making it freely available online. Search for places of interest to plan your next expedition and keep yourself up-to-date with what is happening in the world of mountaineering.

Log on and access every Mountain INFO published in Climb Magazine since March 2005. As with all of our 'Archives', we will continue to add to this section, eventually including the early days of High Mountain Sports.

UKCLIMBING.COM READER SUBSCRIPTION OFFER

Subscribe online at www.climbmagazine.com

We are offering all UKClimbing.com readers the opportunity to benefit from special reduced rates when subscribing to Climb Magazine.

For a limited period only you can save a massive £29.00!*

Exclusive Discounted Rates


1 yr (12 issues) RRP £42.00 - UKC Special Rate £30.00
2yr (24 issues) RRP £84.00 - UKC Special Rate £55.00

In order to qualify for these special rates simply log onto the Climb website and enter the following promo codes:


1yr - EARLYUKONE
2yr - EARLYUKTWO


* Based upon a UK 2yr subscription.
* Overseas readers can also benefit from the offer – simply contact info@climbmagazine.com for your unique promo code.

  • Receive your issue direct to your door every month
  • Free Delivery
  • Keep up to date with the latest news & Info


Subscribe online at www.climbmagazine.com


More information www.climbmagazine.com

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing.com the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing.com then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

12 Jun, 2009
Cool. I made the cover...... ....... with my excellent belaying skills!
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest