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How to place an ice screw by Roger Strong Video

© TobyA
Arc'teryx Ambassador Athlete Roger Strong gives the beta on placing a bomber ice screw.


More info on placing ice screws can be found in the Winter Climbing+ book from RockFAX:

Winter CLIMBING + Rockfax Cover  © Rockfax
Winter CLIMBING + Rockfax Cover
© Rockfax
Winter Climbing+ is the third in the critically acclaimed series of instructional books from Rockfax. Written by two of the UK's most respected winter climbers, Winter Climbing+ takes a positive approach to the climbing discipline that has traditionally had its delights obscured by its dangers.

Filled with inspirational full colour photographs throughout, and a clear, concise text that quickly unravels the mysteries of winter climbing, Winter Climbing+ wastes no time in revealing shortcuts to the skills that make a sound winter climber. The book assumes the reader has no prior-knowledge of winter climbing and starts with the basic skills and equipment that are needed to safely head into the hills. The book progresses gradually to the more subtle movement skills and tactical elements that allow for rapid progress into higher levels of difficulty.

Describing the full range of activities covered by the title, Winter Climbing+ takes a detailed look at both ice and mixed climbing, examining both the traditional mixed climbing skills as well as those needed for modern sport mixed now widely practised. The book follows the style set in previous titles by including an in-depth look at the all-important psychological aspects of the sport, and finishes with a guide to major winter climbing destinations.

  • Price: £19.95
  • Pages: 280
  • ISBN: 978 1 873341 96 4

Check out the preview chapter to Ice: Style and Ethics

Winter CLIMBING + Example Page  © Rockfax
An example page - click to enlarge

x Read the UKC Review of the Winter CLIMBING +



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1 Dec, 2009
Placing ice-screws with a slight downward angle can be a good idea in hard, uniform, compact ice where the thread will hold well. In anything else - air pockets, snow-ice, melting ice (as per this video) - ice-screws should NOT be placed head down. As you often don't know what you're placing your screw into, it's usually best to play conservative and go for a horizontal placement.
1 Dec, 2009
Useful and informative, but why did they have to put that music track over the top? It's boring, it's unnecessary (this isn't a climbing sequence where music might be used to build up excitement) and it makes it harder to hear what Roger Strong is saying.
1 Dec, 2009
That's what I thought.
2 Dec, 2009
) Music didn't bother me at all btw.
3 Dec, 2009
The expression on the face on that woman to the right was priceless! LoL
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