UKC

Jack Geldard on sighting Surgical Lust - E7 6b Video

© Posing Productions

Jack Geldard on Surgical Lust - screen shot from the film.  © Posing Productions
Jack Geldard on Surgical Lust - screen shot from the film.
In this short clip, Jack Geldard on sights Surgical Lust (E7 6b) on Scimitar Ridge, Llanberis Pass, North Wales.

 

He briefly described this day out climbing in the UKC article: On Sight - The Other Side of the Lens

The clip is an out-take from the film On Sight. During the making of On Sight, Alastair Lee, the man behind Posing Productions climbing films, captured hundreds of hours of footage of British climbers on hard traditional routes.

Most of this footage didn't make the final cut of the film, as Alastair worked hard to create a film that had a story, and chose carefully from his collection of routes, leaving him with a collection of unseen clips.

This route: Surgical Lust, was first climbed in 1987 by Paul Pritchard and graded E7 6b. Jack estimates the difficulties as F7a+/F7b and thinks it would get a danger rating of X, having snappy holds and very poor protection.

Jack Geldard past the crux on Surgical Lust.  © Posing Productions
Jack Geldard past the crux on Surgical Lust.
It is described in the CC Llanberis guidebook thus:

Surgical Lust - 30 Metres - E7 6b

"One of the most strenuous routes in the Pass. Up and right of King Wad is the large groove taken by Cheron. This fine, severely overhanging test-piece, which is "massively serious", tackles a line based on the crack in the impending wall left of Cheron's blunt left arête. Follow the line of the crack (two pegs), climbing the wall either side of the crack as necessary. The climbing is extremely serious up to the first peg: it is also still quite possible to deck it from 21 metres."

You can watch a trailer for the film On Sight on the Posing Productions Website.

Warning: This clip contains swearing.



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19 Feb, 2009
Good effort Jack. I remember doing Tufty Club..., which if I remember correctly goes right of this? That felt steep enough. I wonder why this wasn't used in the video as it would have considerably increased the number of actual on-sight ascents, rather than seeing people falling off the same moves repeatedly. Cheers Graham
19 Feb, 2009
Very entertaining, especially on finding the thank god jug, looks like a great climb and great climbing by Jack. Are we expecting to see more clips then from the unseen stash?
19 Feb, 2009
As far as I can see, film makers from Hard Grit onwards have decided that falls sell films.
19 Feb, 2009
Isn't that what the American chappy was saying in the blog post last week? Jack and Caff do chat and say "watch me" a lot as well, which I think is endearing but did seem to bother the American viewer.
19 Feb, 2009
Hi Graham, Yep, Tufty Club goes up the buttress more to the right of Surgical Lust, probably about 10 or 15 metres to the right I'd guess. Great Crag. Cheers, Jack
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