UKC

James Pearson working Gerty Berwick E9 7a Video

© Jack Geldard
James Pearson on the second ascent of Gerty Berwick at Ilkley  © David Simmonite
James Pearson on the second ascent of Gerty Berwick at Ilkley
© David Simmonite, Feb 2009
James Pearson has recently repeated Gerty Berwick, the famous project at Ilkley, to the left of The New Statesman.

The route was first climbed by Ryan Pasquill just a few weeks ago. Ryan is a superbly talented climber, operating at a high level in bouldering, trad climbing and sport climbing.

Ryan suggested a grade of E9 7a/b for Gerty Berwick, describing the highball crux as around Font 8A in difficulty.

You can read more about both Ryan's and James' ascents on the UKC news page:

In this clip, filmed by Hotaches, James is working the moves on the route, which was at the time, still a project. The clip was filmed around one year ago.

You can see more video footage of hard gritstone at the Hotaches Blog, including a clip of Ben Cossey headpointing Simba's Pride at Burbage.

photo
Click to find out more about HotAches


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19 Feb, 2009
That looks well 'ard! Do others use a grigri for self belaying like James? It looks a bit fiddly compared to a shunt but presumably there are advantages as well?
19 Feb, 2009
Yes - you can go back down!! You quite often need to tweak your height to just the right position to be able to pull on to the rock. And of course, if you can't get up to the top! Jack
19 Feb, 2009
But I guess you have to pull the rope through yourself as you go up? Unlike with a shunt (at least not if the rope has a wee bit of weight on the end). Do Petzl OK it for this use? I have a grigri but I got it from a friend so (embarrassed cough) don't think I've ever read the instructions...
19 Feb, 2009
Yeah I use it like that too, it's fine. Just got to remember to make sure there is a some protection for the rope and put a knot in the rope underneath you at some point, occasionally it slips.
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