Melloblocco Report 2009

The Melloblocco is a bouldering festival and outdoor competition held every year in the beautiful Val di Mello in Italy.

Here Vincio Stefanello gives us a quick run down of the event, including who won the bouldering comp.

Melloblocco 2009, 108 kb
Adam Ondra - 2009 Melloblocco Winner

It was meant to be a celebration and what a celebration it turned out to be!

Once again Melloblocco lived up to all expectations and the sixth edition of this international bouldering meeting in Val Masino (Val di Mello) - organised by the Val Masino Town council – didn't let anyone down. More than 2100 registered climbers from all over Italy and 37 different countries were joined by at least another 3000 passionate boulderers in a grand finale on Sunday.

The event has slowly but surely become an unmissable occasion for all climbers and thanks to them the meeting has grown from strength to strength. This year the Melloblocco broke even the most ambitious of records and registered a record number of participants and an incredible number of young and extremely young climbers. This is indicative of the Melloblocco's future. A great future!

The numbers demonstrate clearly that the event was a success. As does the number of foreign climbers who reached the valley early on Thursday to experience this adventure and collective celebration unfold day by day. Further proof of the success is how the valley welcomed the bouldering "tribe". These people thanked the valley by leaving it as clean as they had found it. The marvellous natural habitat was respected fully and the cars were left firmly parked, as the Melloblocco had only one simple rule: reach the climbing areas on foot or via shuttle buses.

Melloblocco 2009
© Claudio Piscina / Diego Neonati

Melloblocco 2009, 151 kb
Melloblocco 2009
© Claudio Piscina / Diego Neonati
This is in part because Val di Mello's meadows, boulders, rock faces and beautiful waterfalls have recently been designated Lombardy's biggest Nature Reserve and the 'melloblockers' celebrated in the best way possible by calling it their own and, above all, personally taking on the responsibility of defending and safeguarding its future.

Melloblocco 2009 will be remembered for all of this. For the 700 boulder problems, of which 300 were new for this edition. But also for the incredible performances of the many top climbers who, like every year, climbed along side other passionate climbers.

One person in particular astonished all and his incredible magic is destined to remain etched in people's memories for a long time to come. We're talking about the youngster Adam Ondra, the 16 year old from the Czech Republic who sent a record 8 special boulder problems.

Melloblocco 2009
© Claudio Piscina / Diego Neonati

Melloblocco 2009, 119 kb
Melloblocco 2009
© Claudio Piscina / Diego Neonati
Set by Simone Pedeferri for the top climbers, Ondra's efforts were true magic and his ascents excited and amazed all. As did those of the entire Russian female bouldering team. Olga Bibik, Yulia Abramchuk, Anna Gallyamova, Aleksandra Balakireva, Silvie Raifova and Natalya Vasylenko all sent all 8 female problems, as did Chloè Graftiaux from Belgium.

"It's been beautiful, the valley and the Melloblocco are fantastic"

is how Olga Bibik, the great Russian bouldering champion who took part in the event for the first time ever, described the meeting.

We're certain that this is also what the thousands of climbers thought who in these last four days were the main protagonists of this 6th Melloblocco! Val Masino and Val di Mello have already invited them for next year, for another great bouldering festival!

Melloblocco 2009
© Claudio Piscina / Diego Neonati

Female Winners & Points

Male Winners & Points

Alexandra Balakireva: 8 Adam Ondra: 8
Silvie Rajfovà: 8 Guillaume Glairon Mondet: 5
Yulia Abramchuck: 8 Alexey Rubtsov: 4
Olga Bibik: 8 Sean Mc Coll: 3
Anna Gallyamova: 8 Mykhaylo Shalagin: 3
Chloè Graftiaux: 8  

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