New content at in March

© Jack Geldard
This month we've got 17 new articles, 23 product announcements and 8 independent gear reviews from the UKC testers.

Featured articles

VIDEO: Blockwork Orange - South Africa Bouldering 30-Mar-09
[Blockwork Orange 1, 3 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

Finnish boulderers Nalle Hukkataival and Ville Kurru make some first ascents and hard repeats in Rocklands, South Africa.

@ full article or forums discussion

Uninformed Krapulous Comment 27-Mar-09
[Deadpoint Magazine, 3 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

UKC Editor Jack Geldard reads Jim Perrin's column in the latest Climber Magazine.

Jack takes a quick look at the changing face of climbing media in this short editorial commentary.

@ full article or forums discussion

Mountaineering Mums 26-Mar-09
[Isabelle Santoire and Alex, 3 kb]by Sarah Stirling

“For me personally, and I think for many women, either you want to climb or you want to have a family. I don't think many women can do both very well.”

In this UKC Feature Sarah Stirling explores the difficulties of pursuing an active climbing career and juggling family life.

She talks to top women mountaineers...

@ full article or forums discussion

Light Work - Make Your Photography Stand Out 25-Mar-09
[Zoe Ogden, British Lead Climbing Championships, Blackpool, 3 kb]by Alex Messenger

We like to call Alex Messenger 'One of the World's best climbing photographers'. It makes him all embarrassed... but it's true - Alex is very handy with a lens and in this article he picks ten of his favourite photographs and explains how and why he took them.

" are ten shots that work because of the light or...

@ full article or forums discussion

Long Tall Sally; A Step In To The Extreme 24-Mar-09
[Tom Ireson leading Long Tall Sally (E1), 3 kb]by Tom Ireson

Tom Ireson recounts his first experience of leading an 'E' graded climb on the gritstone classic of Long Tall Sally (E1).

Long Tall Sally is a popular choice for a first E1, being quite short and friendly, with an obvious line and seemingly good protection. How did Tom find it?

"Shit! My foot just slipped... ...

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UKC Features

FRIDAY NIGHT VIDEO: A Journey to Failure 17-Mar-09
[Deliverance; Journey to Failure, 2 kb]by Bunchuk

A short film about the mega classic boulder problem Deliverance at the Stanage Plantation.

"At V8 7b+, it was way out of my league and it was always likely I would fail on...

@ full article or forums discussion

In Conversation: Yusuke Sato - Giri Giri Boy 17-Mar-09
[Giri Giri boy Yusuke Sato and Jack Geldard getting wet, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

The Japanese Giri Giri boys are well regarded throughout the world of mountaineering, but an air of mystery surrounds them and their philosophy.

Little is known about the climbers...

@ full article or forums discussion

Alpkit CoLAB 09 at The Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show 13-Mar-09
[Graham Thompson, 3 kb]by Colin and Nick Alpkit

The Alpkit National CoLAB Design Award is now in its final phase, and the contestants are now busy in their sheds fine tuning their designs, ready for the final at The Ordnance...

@ full article or forums discussion

PREVIEW: Climb Magazine - April 2009 12-Mar-09
[Climb magazine April 2009 Cover, 3 kb]by Climb Magazine

Take a look inside the April issue of Climb. We've also got a digital teaser of the magazine this month - so check it out at

@ full article or forums discussion

Soloing Washington Column 12-Mar-09
[North Dome and Washington Column, 4 kb]by Karl Baba

Karl Baba describes a scary solo ascent of Washington Column Direct in Yosemite.

"Foolish solo manoeuvres are often inspired by some relationship angst. Scaring the crap out of yourself cuts through layers of pettiness to the core of our existence. This was one of those "girlfriend solos"...

...I prayed, repented, and did...

@ full article or forums discussion

Meeting The Godfather 11-Mar-09
[Es leading on The Godafther - pitch 4, 3 kb]by Es Tresidder

In this special UKC feature, Es Tresidder describes an attempt at repeating The Godfather (VIII, 8) on Beinn Bhan.

The Godfather ranks amongst the most sought after Scottish winter prizes, being extremely hard, long, remote and covering awe-inspiring ground on one of Scotland's most fearsome winter cliffs.


@ full article or forums discussion

VIDEO: Natalija Gros climbs Histerija F8c+ 09-Mar-09
[Natalija Gros climbs F8c+ (Still shot from Video), 4 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

In this stunning short film, Slovenian climber Natalija Gros climbs Histerija (F8c+) at Mišja Peč, Slovenia.

Natalija is one of only a handful of women...

@ full article or forums discussion

ShAFF 2009 06-Mar-09
[Ron Fawcett being interviewed by Ed Douglas at ShAFF 2009, 2 kb]by Alan James - UKC

The fourth Sheffield Adventure Film Festival came back bigger and better than ever this year.

The backbone of the event was the 36 films including 11 premières; top speakers included...

@ full article or forums discussion

SkyMasters 2009 at The Outdoors Show: Win Tickets 06-Mar-09
[Adrian Baxter Interview & SkyMasters ticket offer, Lectures, market research, commercial notices Premier Post, 1 weeks at &, 5 kb]by Mike Weeks

The 2009 Skymasters wall is coming back new and improved and with a number of unique competition wall features, including spinning barrels and pivoting half moon features. Mike Weeks of X1...

@ full article or forums discussion

Rock Destinations

Red River Gorge 31-Mar-09
[Miguel's Pizza has been called The Camp 4 of the East., 3 kb]by Dave Pegg

What are the world's best sport-climbing areas? Ceuse, Rodellar, Kalymnos ... Europe's famous limestone cliffs are probably at the top of your list. Ask an American, though, and there's a...

@ full article or forums discussion

Madeira Climbing 20-Mar-09
[Brisa E2 5b Porta De Abra, 4 kb]by Pat Littlejohn

The Atlantic isle of Madeira lies off the African coast some 250 miles north of the Canary Islands. Rising to 1800m, it is a mountainous island criss-crossed with artificial watercourses...

@ full article or forums discussion

Ceillac Ice 11-Mar-09
[Unknown Climber on the first pitch of Les Formes Du Chaos WI4, Ceillac, 2 kb]by Kevin Avery-Assistant Editor- UKC

France's Ecrins National Park has long been famous as a world-class ice climbing destination. La Grave, Fournel, Freissinieres and Vallon Du Diable all provide acres of fat, reliable ice...

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Latest Product News
Announcements direct from the manufacturers
Joe Brown Shops - Renovations and new Website 25-Mar-09
[The Gear Wall., 3 kb]by Mick Ryan -

The Joe Brown Shops were opened by Val & Joe Brown back in 1966 and have always been a corner stone of speciality independent outdoor retailing. In 2005 a small group of friends bought the...

@ full item or forums discussion

The Asgard Project 25-Mar-09
[Page 1, 3 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

Alastair Lee unveils his plans for 2009:

He is following Leo Houlding, as Leo gears up toward his expedition to Mount Asgard.

@ full item or forums discussion

UKC Job Alert: Administrator for the Alpine Club 23-Mar-09
[ukc job alert, 3 kb]by Mick Ryan -

The Alpine Club is looking to recruit an administrator for its office in Charlotte Road, London EC2

@ full item or forums discussion

Glenmore Lodge - Who are we? 23-Mar-09
[Glenmore Newsletter, 4 kb]by Pauline Sanderson

Glenmore Lodge. Who are we? Glenmore Lodge wants everybody to know that we do more than deliver skills courses and NGB training and assessments. We host endless meetings and workshops for...

@ full item or forums discussion

Boot Camp at Craggy2 on 25th April 19-Mar-09
[Craggy Island La Sportiva Boot Camp, 5 kb]by Mick Ryan -

Sportiva in conjunction with Craggy Island are running a boot camp at their new bouldering centre at The Oaks near Sutton on the 25th April 2009.

@ full item or forums discussion

New Climbers' Club Website and Llanberis eMag Sample 19-Mar-09
[Climbers' Club New Website, 4 kb]by Mick Ryan -

The Climbers' Club have a new website which is easy to navigate, has lots of new features and is frequently updated. Samples of the CC's new Llanberis guidebook can also be viewed in eMag...

@ full item or forums discussion

Plastic Fantastic Comp at Nottingham Climbing Centre 18-Mar-09
[Dawid Skocylas latching the final Dyno, 4 kb]by Dan Bradley

Plastic Fantastic was held at the Nottingham Climbing Centre on Sunday Feb 1st, it was mixed discipline competition and also a first for the climbing wall.

@ full item or forums discussion

Jetboil Helios 17-Mar-09
[Jetboil Helios #1, 2 kb]by Lyon Equipment

High performance meets high capacity. Mobilize your party with Jetboil's latest system.

@ full item or forums discussion

@ more products...
...Latest Product News
Announcements direct from the manufacturers
Major New Bouldering Centre Comes To West Yorkshire 17-Mar-09
[The Depot, 2 kb]by Kevin Avery - UKC

The Depot, a major new bouldering centre is due to open its doors to the public at the beginning of April. Based in Pudsey, West Yorkshire in a fully refurbished 1920's "art-deco" style bus depot, it offers climbers in the area a world-class indoor climbing experience in a unique and...

@ full item or forums discussion

Women's Snazette Jacket 14-Mar-09
[Marmot Women's Snazette Jacket , 3 kb]by Marmot

Polartec's cutting edge Windbloc® softshell fabric makes the Snazette a proud new entrant in our unrivalled softshell line. The Snazette is versatile enough to be used for climbing, skiing and mountain walking.

@ full item or forums discussion

EVENT: Bar Room Mountaineers: The History of Climbing Songs 14-Mar-09
[Dennis Gray, like a market trader, was hawking his latest CD, The Bar Room Mountaineers., 3 kb]by Sarah Stirling

Something different! Dennis Gray and Paul Cherry are reviving the tradition of climbing songs and reckon they can get you singing along to classics. There are two events: 7.30pm March 24th Alpine Club, London (free) and 7.30pm March 28th Flux Gallery, Leeds (£5 including wine and snacks). Report by Sarah Stirling for

@ full item or forums discussion

New Wall: Shropshire Climbing Centre 11-Mar-09
[Shropshire Climbing Centre, 2 kb]by Kevin Avery - UKC

Shropshire Climbing Centre opens its doors today offering a state of the art bouldering and roped climbing facility, in Newport near Telford. With over 300 sq.m of bouldering, we are the...

@ full item or forums discussion

Manchester Festival of Climbing 10-Mar-09
[One of the many attmepts at the MCC dyno, 3 kb]by Manchester Climbing Centre

MCC last weekend saw the great success of the Manchester Festival of Climbing and Five Stars CLimb Everest Challenge.

@ full item or forums discussion

UKC Job Alert: Ropes Manager, Detail Events 10-Mar-09
[ukc job alert, 3 kb]by Mick Ryan -

Detail Events is the UK market leader in adventure sport events. You will responsible for selection, liberation, rigging and management of ropes venues and all aspects of roped operations...

@ full item or forums discussion

UKC Job Alert: Senior Designer 07-Mar-09
[ukc job alert, 3 kb]by Mountain Equipment

Mountain Equipment has been making some of the finest mountain clothing and equipment in the world since 1961. We design, test and build with passion and commitment because we know that our...

@ full item or forums discussion

The Devil Inside The Fingerboard - WINNER 05-Mar-09
[Premier Post: Name Our Fingerboard Competition - Climb Indoors, 4 kb]by Mick Ryan -

King Kong, part of Climb Indoors based in Threlked Quarry at the base of Blencathra near Keswick, designed a new fingerboard using the latest Polyurethane technology. The board is a very...

@ full item or forums discussion

Winter Skills - Essential Walking and Climbing Techniques 05-Mar-09
[Winter Skills - Essential Walking and Climbing Techniques , 3 kb]by Mick Ryan -

If you need to brush up your winter skills - look no further! Winter Skills - Essential Walking and Climbing Techniques written by Andy Cunningham and Allen Fyffe is the most up to date text book you'll find. Lavishly illustrated and covering everything from winter navigation, avalanche awareness, emergency procedures and ropework for walkers as...

@ full item or forums discussion

UKC Job Alert: Technical Sales Trainer - The North Face 04-Mar-09
[ukc job alert, 3 kb]by The North Face Recruitment

Technical Sales Trainer, The North Face. You'll travel extensively throughout the northern half of the UK, from Nottingham up to Scotland, visiting key accounts, where you'll be responsible...

@ full item or forums discussion

How's Your CWIF? 03-Mar-09
[Andy Earl, CWIF 2008, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

It's the Climbing Works International Festival next weekend (7 March).

Climb alongside the world's top boulderers. Enter the fun team event. Full details in this news item.

@ full item or forums discussion

VIDEO: TRAD Film Competition at The Outdoors Show 03-Mar-09
[Premier Post: If you're Creative, Talented and Adventurous? , 2 kb]by Mick Ryan -

Featured at this years Outdoors Show at the NEC, Birmingham (March 27th – 29th) is the The Reel Adventure Diaries (TRAD) Film Competition. Here are the finalists. The winner will be chosen at the show.

@ full item or forums discussion

Myo XP 02-Mar-09
[Petzl Myo XP #1, 2 kb]by Lyon Equipment

The Myo XP is Petzl's all-round, high spec' head torch designed to be powerful enough for night navigation and climbing route spotting, but also to provide lower light modes for campsite...

@ full item or forums discussion

London and Glasgow Film Festivals - This week 02-Mar-09
[Dave MacLeod on the first ascent of Echo Wall, 3 kb]by Super 7

Want to see the world's most exciting adventures on the big screen? A Mountain Film Festival is coming to London (all day) and Glasgow (evening only) in March 2009, and brings with it the...

@ full item or forums discussion

British Mountain Guides New Website 02-Mar-09
[British Mountain Guides , 3 kb]by British Mountain Guides

You could be forgiven for assuming that British Mountain Guides were technological luddites who were far too busy climbing or skiing to worry about websites. You may have been right in the...

@ full item or forums discussion

Gear Reviews
Independent reviews from the UKC gear testers
Torq Shell Jacket 31-Mar-09
[Jack Geldard testing the Crux Torq Jacket in winter conditions, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

UKC Editor Jack Geldard tests the Torq shell jacket from Crux.

"Don't buy this for posing in the pub. Buy this jacket for your next big expedition or as a Scottish winter workhorse."

"No features... except the fact that it will keep you dry, in any conditions."

@ full review or forums discussion

Ascent Jacket 24-Mar-09
[RAB Ascent 2, 2 kb]by TobyA

Toby Archer reviews the RAB Ascent Jacket.

He says:"It is made of good materials, it is really warm and isn't too expensive."

@ full review or forums discussion

Neutrino 20-Mar-09
[Rab Neutrino 1, 3 kb]by Paul Lewis

I have been using the Neutrino for the last 3 months and so far it has had several outings on Welsh and Scottish mountains as well as being used regularly as a cragging belay jacket in the Peak District. It's also proved very useful for belay duty on winter visits to chilly local climbing walls and it recently spent time in a French ski resort...

@ full review or forums discussion

Sicily and Alpine Ice Guidebooks 17-Mar-09
[Alpine Ice Cover, 3 kb]by Chris Craggs

Italian publishing company Verstante Sud continue to churn out high quality guidebooks at a steady pace, to both Italy and further a field. The latest pair of books to flop onto my doormat form an interesting juxtaposition, Di Roccia, di Sole (Rock- Sun, Rock Climbing in Sicily) and Alpine Ice – the 600 best ice falls in the Alps. Both are...

@ full review or forums discussion

Velocity Fleece Top 17-Mar-09
[Patagonia Velocity, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

UKC Editor Jack Geldard tests the Velocity Fleece Top from Patagonia.

"It's not wind-proof, it's not water-proof and it won't make you breakfast in bed. It's a snug fitting, stretchy fleece top..."

@ full review or forums discussion

Doctor Gear IV: Best Glove system? 08-Mar-09
[Outdoor Research Vert Glove, 2 kb]by Andy Kirkpatrick

Gear guru Andy Kirkpatrick shares his views on glove systems.

He adopts a fairly unique system involving some fold-open mitts.

@ full review or forums discussion

Beastmaker 2000: Back two - the future? 02-Mar-09
[Beastmaker, 2 kb]by Simon Lee

Simon Lee steps in to the seedy back streets of Sheffield and gets his mitts on the new Beastmaker 2000.

"Ned appeared and let me in – he seemed a bit 'tired'. The place...

@ full review or forums discussion

Scottish Rock Volume 2 02-Mar-09
[Scottish Rock Volume 2, 3 kb]by Martin Chester

Martin Chester leafs through the stunning pages of Scottish Rock Volume 2. He's impressed.

"...the main reason I am so excited about this book is that it takes the lid off some well kept secrets. Like the fact that, and just ask anyone else who has touched it, Torridonian sandstone...

@ full review or forums discussion

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1 Apr, 2009
And February's 20 new articles, 16 product announcements and 4 independent gear reviews from the UKC testers.
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