UKC

Pan Aroma

© www.michaelmeisl.com
The giant roof of the Cima Ovest is without any doubt one of the most impressive formations in the climbing world. In 1968, these 40 horizontal meters were first climbed by the Germans, Gerhard Baur and the Rudolph brothers and their route got famous as the “biggest roof on earth”.
photo
Pan Aroma
© www.michaelmeisl.com


photo
Pan Aroma
© www.michaelmeisl.com
In June 2007 the South Tyrolean Martin Kopfsguter and I went on to explore a new route through the center of the Baur-Roof, which eventually could get climbed free. Naturally, we couldn´t follow the bolt ladder of the original route, but we had to use every single weakness to overcome the overhanging terrain without any artificial aid.

The new route shares in the lower vertical part, the first five pitches with Bellavista as well as the first twelve meters in the roof, but then cuts out right. Then it crosses up and right the whole center of the roof, crosses the Baur-Route and ends with some fully horizontal ceilings, which lead to the black and vertical walls above the roof. A ten meters long traverse leads up and left back to the Baur-Route, which we then followed to the top.

photo
Cima Ovest
© www.michaelmeisl.com
Obviously, I was interested in redpointing our new project. After about a month and some days of hard work in the route I finally redpointed Pan Aroma at the 26th of July. Max Reichel and Franz Hinterbrandner were with me on that day and they took the chance to get some “live” footage of the redpoint ascent.

In the lower part, which the new route shares with Bellavista, the climb is protected with pitons. The two new pitches in the giant roof are protected by eleven bolts, nuts or friends can be left at home. Therefore, Pan Aroma is quite a challenging climb and it should be something like 8c.

Alexander Huber

Fotos: Michael Meisl


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